Looking behind the label
Choosing which wine to buy can be like negotiating your way through a maze of confusion. When I was studying for my Wines and Spirits Education Trust exams, the level 2 book was called Looking behind the label. The label, that slip of paper stuck to the front of the bottle, is our talisman to choosing wine but it’s far from straightforward. German wine labels can be the most obfuscatory; in some cases it’s impossible to tell whether the wine is sweet or dry. A knowledge of the regions of France and where the main grape varieties are grown is still necessary to understand French wine. Once you know that Chablis contains unoaked Chardonnay, white Sancerre predominantly Sauvignon Blanc and Vourvray Chenin Blanc, life starts to get a bit easier but unless you take a pocket wine guide into a French supermarket you may still be baffled by smaller communes.
New World wine makers stole a march on the Old World by understanding the need to make things more transparent. The US and Australia were pioneers of varietal labelling i.e. stating which grape varieties are contained in the wine. The urge to ape traditional Grand Cru appellations also went out the window and wines were given names that customers felt warm and friendly about (that were easy to pronounce). In fact labelling started to get radical; take the Ralph Steadman illustrations on Cardinal Zin from Bonny Doon (anyone remember The Catalyst made by Randall Grahm and sold by Oddbins?) the success of Fat Bastard and Pinot Evil in the US and the rise and rise of Goats do Roam from South Africa. I draw the line at wines marketed to women in the US including Mad Housewife, Mommy’s Time Out and Happy Bitch (see more here) and would rather be seen dead than carrying one of those out of the store. Which also demonstrates that fashion, style and trends can affect wine brands (and grape varieties) more than the contents of the bottle. In fact the marketing by varietal while neglecting terroir is now having an impact on a lot of New World wines particularly Australia, as certain grape varieties go out of fashion.
Looking back on my wine exams, the most nerve-wracking part of WSET advanced level was the blind tasting session. Putting aside all preconceptions and prejudices and concentrating on what is in the glass, can be tricky.
And so it was when I agreed to participate in a blind tasting challenge, The Label Project, that was being held among bloggers all over the world. The stakes were high – get it right and I could win a trip to Australia. Could I clear my mind and trust my instincts enough to be successful?
Diary of a blind tasting:
No need to guess the country of origin. It was stated on a little label at the back – Made in Australia. The welcome video has an Australian voice over. A double-bluff? Not if the prize was a trip to down-under!
- It lies between two other major and much older wine regions
- Its macroclimate is cool but within the region there are many varied topographies, soils and mesoclimates
- It is famous for its fruit produce including cherries, pears and apples
- Hints of honeydew melon aromas
- A palate of lemon pith
- Underlying creamy texture
The clues made me think that it could be Chardonnay, the nose and the bottle shape confirmed it. Forget Aussie over-oaked though. This wine was crisp and with enough acidity to balance the creaminess.
- Altitude of the region ranges from around 250-400 metres (approx 800-1300 feet) above sea level
- In general, winters are cool and wet but summer days are warm, dry and sunny here
- It is very popular with wine tourists
- Spicy aroma of rich fruit cake
- Rich berry flavours with a hint of dark chocolate
- Velvety texture
I was certain from the clues that this was Shiraz. I was just filling in my answer when I though I’d better taste it. The colour was unexpected, I thought it would be more purple. It wasn’t the usual block-buster, deep, peppery Aussie Shiraz I’d expected. There was doubt in my mind. Where was the pepper? It was soft, velvety, with berry fruits on the palate and nose. I kept wavering. Merlot?
- The terrain is completely flat
- Its subsoil is an ancient marine bed
- It has a maritime influenced climate
Varietal tasting note clues :
- Leafy aromas with a hint of mint
- Ripe cassis flavours
- A firm structure with good persistence on the palate
Another cert. Cabernet Sauvignon without a doubt. A hint of blackcurrant leaf and mint, firm tannins. Well balanced and very drinkable.
Waking up early in London on Friday morning I quickly filled in my answers while sitting in bed, sent them off and promptly forgot all about it. Returning to Dubai on Monday, I was greeted by the welcome and unexpected presence of yet another box. I’d had a sneaking suspicion that the wine was Jacob’s Creek Reserve and the contents confirmed it. But alas not Merlot – wine number two was a Shiraz – I’d completely over-analysed that one! Ah well, I could drink my consolation prize with pleasure getting five out of six correct.
Wine #1 – Chardonnay from the Adelaide Hills (South Australia)
Wine #2 – Shiraz from the Barossa Valley (South Australia)
Wine #3 – Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra (South Australia)
Congratulations to the winner who will be announced today from among my fellow bloggers Life in the Food Lane, The Hedonista, Ginger and Scotch and Ishita Unblogged. They will join other bloggers from around the world at Jacob’s Creek where, no doubt, they’ll be learning all about terroir. That’s one party worth going to! Here is the destination:
How do you choose your wine and how much do you think the label affects your choices?