The Dubai Rugby 7s is one of the biggest weekends in the calendar, especially popular among expats. I remember first visiting in 1995 when you could stroll along the open sided main pitch and find your place in the sparsely filled stands. The side pitches were all sand and the teams mainly local and from around the region. These days it’s a huge event with international teams as well as local, women’s tournaments and school teams battling it out. It used to be all about the rugby, the dressing up and the drinking. Food was an afterthought with huge queues for a cheap burger or greasy fish and chips – except for in corporate hospitality where everything is a bit too fancy (although we’d sneak in for the shawarma stand). Now, thank heavens, food has improved a lot even in the cheap seats – OK it’s not Masterchef but there are some reasonable choices and even healthier nosh. I did a good trawl round of the eating and drinking options last time and have snaffled a sneak peek of what’s coming up this year. Whoever is the ultimate tournament winner, 2014 looks like the best yet for grub.
Raise a fork for pork
Sharing the most exciting news first. Regular readers will know the pleasure I derive from eating a sausage in the street when I’m in the UK so ‘The Big Breakfast’, a stand dedicated to pork, is music to my ears. Fancy Irish smoked back bacon, griddled to perfection in a soft white bap? Or ‘The Full Monty’ where said bap contains Irish bacon, British banger and black pudding? They even have a ‘hog burger’ in a Welsh soda roll. Race you there?
Hot for dogs
If your tastes for meat in a bun are more US-driven there are many options. There will be American Hot Dog carts serving Classic American Hotdogs (their capitalisation not mine) with onions, mustard and ketchup. Plus within Bidi Bondi there’s a Champions Hot Dog Menu which offer a South Pacific Island Dog (topped with mango and pineapple slaw), a North American Dog (with onions, mustard, pickles and tomato sauce), a South American Dog (with chimichurri and beef chorizo salsa) and a French Dog (caramelized onions, wholegrain mustard aioli and Gruyère cheese). As outside the pork zone the dogs are made of chicken. However, I could be converted.
The Rugby 7s is now massively popular with families, with a special stand dedicated to children-friendly, non-drinking fun. No need to resort to the usual junk food offering with Giraffe around – they even have salad on the menu!
This is the kind of thing you can expect: Pasta Margherita (Roasted cherry tomatoes, mozzarella, basil and rocket), Giraffe Deluxe Veggie Burger (broad beans, peas, potato and spinach), Popcorn chicken (chicken fillet bites with skin on fries), Fish Finger Burger (breaded haddock goujons, with tartare sauce, tomato and lettuce in a soft white bap), Tunisian Feta Salad (marinated feta, quinoa, green beans, red pepper, cumin roasted squash with mixed leaves and Salsa Verde) and Thai Green Chicken Curry (with roasted butternut squash, green beans, and fragrant rice). I like that they offer two sizes of many dishes so you can cater for little tummies without waste (and at lower cost).
Bidi Bondi has more on the menu than just hot dogs too.
Fast food favourites
Burgers and fish and chips still have a place at the festival. Left Bank, the popular casual eatery and bar at the Madinat, is flipping and frying again this year.
At the Left Bank Fish and Chip Shop, the fish is hand-battered pollack from New Zealand served with chunky chip shop chips (thankfully not fries). Curry sauce and gravy are optional extras.
There’s a choice of three at the Left Bank burger joint. The Cheeseburger is made of New Zealand Angel Bay beef, the chicken burger also comes with cheese, onions and tomatoes and the Veggie Burger is ‘a rustic mix of broad beans, peas, potato and spinach, seasoned with aromatic spices.’ Veggie teen will be delighted.
If you fancy a pie you can get one from the Pie Face Cart.
Yes, they self-censored when they came to the U.A.E. The chain with the whizzy green bikes and pro-biotic, 10 grain crust is back at the 7s again. Their opening was possibly the first blogger event I was ever invited to!
If you manage to snaffle a ticket in hospitality a range of catering awaits you depending on which section you are in.
If you fancy a sandwich see Costa info below…
All the food stands sell the usual sodas and water. They are harder to obtain at the booze outlet. Do make sure you drink enough water throughout the day as dehydration and sunstroke is not pretty.
Costa Coffee is on hand for your caffeine fix with four main locations and a Costa Ice station. They will also serve fresh food including a festive turkey, cranberry and stuffing sandwich.
My favourite hang out is at the MMI Wine Bar which overlooks pitch 2. Don’t expect fine wine tasting just quaffable wines from Australia which are not overpriced (for a Dubai event). A bottle of Aussie Sauvignon Blanc is AED 120, with the wines on offer predominantly by de Bortoli Wines (from cool climate, Yarra Valley, close to Melbourne). There was a nice rosé that which I sipped as the sun went down last year…
As always there are very popular Heineken bars (which turns into a packed, noisy and very funny party as the night goes on) and Strongbow Cider Garden area. If you can’t be bothered to go to a bar (or leave your place in the stand) there are mobile Heineken men to pour you a drink from the tank on their backs.
Other things to know
- As always, cash should be exchanged for drink tokens on arrival. If you don’t spend them all there is a range of places to spend them after the event including Al Hamra Cellar in Ras Al Khaimah.
- Fibber Magees is does back of house catering – worth knowing if you are an international player, social player, ref or ball kid!
- You’ll be able to check out the menus, location, leave pictures and reviews on zomato.com/rugby7s – I’ll post the link when it’s live.
- Dress up – or at least have your camera ready – the costumes get wilder every year.
I’m not saying that the Dubai Rugby 7s is a gourmet paradise but the food is definitely moving in the right direction and catering to a broader family audience. What would make it better? A street food village would be awesome with a few more Asian flavours on the menu – where is the curry? Push the boat out more with the classics – I’m thinking about the amazing pickled eggs served by Brisket Belle for instance, wouldn’t they be great with the fish and chips… and some really good herby, fresh, tartare sauce plus some calamari on the menu? I’m sure there is a market for cocktails at the rugby too. However, the quality has improved, the choice is better, the huge queues are a thing of the past.
See you at the Rugby 7s? I won’t be the one dressed as a prawn!
Immersing dried fruit in booze so it all plumps up, giving the juicy, sticky mixture a swirl now and again, weighing the ingredients, creaming the butter and sugar, stirring it all up with a wooden spoon in my huge Mason Cash bowl, wearing my favourite pinny and pretending to be a domestic goddess (or even the domestic goddess!). All this I love. But there’s one bit of the Christmas cake making I’m not so enamoured with – in fact positively dread. It’s the baking.
Lining the tin is a faff but I’m fine with that. It’s the other stuff that bothers me. Wrapping some layers of newspaper round the sides with brown string so the tin doesn’t scorch the outside (or buying those expensive cake tin insulators you’ll only use once a year). The inevitable rise and crack of the top and those blackened raisins. Watching it like a hawk so it’s perfectly cooked through. Trying to balance a piece of paper on top to stop it over-browning when the fan blows it away. It’s all nerve-wracking stuff.
The answer is to bake it at a lower temperature and longer time. No need to wrap the outside, the cake stays level and a nice even colour all over. If your oven has a range of internal temperatures (mine does) it won’t make a huge difference. I’ve tried it and it works perfectly. OK there was one hitch – we had to get the taxi to double back as I’d forgotten to take it out of the oven when we went out for the evening. Luckily it was so good-tempered that there was no harm done. Thank you to Ruth Clemens of The Pink Whisk for this tip. In fact I used her quantities for my cake too.
This recipe assumes you’ve been lovingly soaking your fruit in booze for weeks by making Christmas Old Soak. You could do it for a week and then make the cake – you might have to heat the fruit to evaporate any excess liquid first. Or you could make a different recipe and feed religiously (Tamasin Day Lewis from All You Can Eat is a good one and this ‘Make and Mature’ recipe looks good too).
Christmas cake (inspired by the Bourke Street Bakery and Ruth Clemens)
- 225g butter, softened plus extra for greasing
- 150g soft, light brown sugar
- 70g soft, dark brown sugar
- 2 tablespoons of black treacle or molasses
- 2 teaspoons raw honey
- 1 heaped teaspoon marmalade
- 5 eggs, large and free range
- 285g plain flour, sifted
- 2 teaspoons mixed spice
- 50g ground almonds
- 1 quantity of Christmas old soak
You will also need some of your chosen booze to feed the cake after it is baked. I used Jack Daniels Single Barrel for the soak so I’m using it for feeding too. Ruth reckons you’ll need about 150ml but I’m less measured about it and go by eye.
- Preheat the oven to 130 C or 110 C fan oven. Arrange your oven shelf so it is towards the lower part of the oven ( about 1/3rd of the way up from the base).
- Grease your tin with butter and line the base and sides with greaseproof paper or baking parchment.
- Using a stand mixer or a wooden spoon and bowl, cream the softened butter and both types of sugar together until the mixture is light (in colour) and fluffy. Beat in the treacle or molasses, raw honey and marmalade.
- Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well between each addition. My mixture always curdles so I add half a tablespoon of flour before the first egg and in between each additional egg.
- Fold in the sifted flour, mixed spice and ground almonds.
- Add the Christmas old soak fruit and stir well to combine making sure no pockets of flour remain.
- Spoon the cake mixture into your tin (or tins) using a spatula to remove every last morsel from the bowl and to level the top. I used a 15 cm round tin this year and also filled 3 giant muffin cups (approx. 6cm each) for mini cakes. The large tin must be at least 7cm deep. Ruth has a handy guide if you want to use a different sized tin.
- Put all the cakes into the oven. Remove the small cakes after 1 hour, testing that they are done by inserting a skewer or toothpick into the centre. This should come out clean or with a few crumbs attached. Remove the large cake after 3 hours (start checking half an hour before).
- Remove the cake from the oven, put on a cooling rack and allow to cool completely in the tin.
- Once the cake has cooled, remove it from the tin. Place the cake on a large piece of baking parchment or greaseproof paper and use a bamboo or metal skewer to make lots of holes all over the surface of the cake without piercing through the base. Feed the cake with 1-2 teaspoons of booze, dripping it carefully over the top of the cake.
- Wrap the paper over the cake (use two pieces at right angles if necessary) and so the same with a piece (or pieces) of foil. Put the wrapped cake in a tin or container with a lid that seals tight so nothing can find its way in (especially in Dubai) and leave in a cool place (not the fridge).
- Feed your cake 2-3 teaspoons of booze every 4 days until most of (or all) the alcohol is absorbed (don’t feed if the cake appears wet). Don’t feed the cake for the final week to give the surface a chance to dry before icing.
- You can decorate your cake up to a month ahead although mine is usually made during the last
Shall we decorate along together? I’ve got a few easy icing ideas up my sleeve. See you in a few weeks time.
P.S. If I’ve got you feeling festive, head over to Festive Food Friday on Taming Twins for all sorts of Christmassy ideas.
Have you been to a party on Christmas eve, come home with a head dancing with Champagne and then had to stay up to do last-minute wrapping while everyone else is asleep? I broke my own rules last year and found myself wrapping stocking presents after I’d vowed to never be in that position again. Get organised and you can trip off to all the parties in December without a care in the world. Plus you’ll feel assured that friends and family near and far have all felt just a little bit special.
1. Christmas cards
I love receiving post from friends and family abroad. The best way to receive is to give and my Christmas card list has a core of friends I’d like to keep in touch with. The round Robin letter is abhorred by some but I rather like reading them – unless of the ‘thinly veiled boast ‘our children are so high achieving’ type. There are online options if you want to save a few trees. Get round the expensive postage by picking up a large amount of stamp books next time you are home. The ones in the UK say ‘1st class’ or ‘2nd class’ so leftovers will last indefinitely. Get your cards written early (I’m doing mine this weekend) and have them ready addressed and stamped then look out for friends traveling home. A quick call out on Facebook works wonders. If they have a stamp on them most people don’t mind shoving them in a letterbox at the airport.
Bonus tip: Postcode finder on Royal Mail
2. Stocking fillers
When DO your children stop wanting a stocking? Start really early with these as they are always the most time-consuming. Jolly’s in Bath is where I usually buy ones for the teens … in August. Overkill? Not at all. Inside Out in Tavistock yielded many treasures this year. Wrap them immediately and keep a list to know what you have bought.
Bonus tip: Inside Out delivers within the UK and EU
3. Hotel Chocolat
I’ve been using Hotel Chocolat for donkey’s years and every person that has received a box of their chocolates has been delighted. They do a ‘sleekster’ which fits through the letter box (not for people with dogs!) and have a handy reminder service so you can add people’s birthdays. You can add a personalised message and ordering is easy. The Champagne truffles are to die for. Elder teen, in her first term at University, was thrilled with one of their Advent calendars.
4. The Secret Adventures of Rolo
Anyone can order a book from Amazon but how about a signed copy direct from the author? My dear friend Debi Evans writes and self-publishes hugely popular fantasy adventure stories about Rolo the dog with historical themes interwoven. They are aimed predominantly at 7-11 year olds but adults with a sense of humour, particularly dog lovers, enjoy them too. The charming illustrations are by Chantal Bourgonje. Signed and dedicated books can be ordered via Debi’s website and posted within UK for £8.50 each (including postage).
5. Book a course
When KP booked me on a fish course I was sceptical; but I loved it. Here are a few on my wish list:
Manna from Devon – I’d love to do another of their courses down in beautiful Dartmouth in Devon. With 39 different course there’s a lot to choose from including cooking in a wood-fired oven and classes for teens. And how about ‘world of curry’?
Virtuous Bread – “Give someone a voucher for a bread class and they will bake bread for you forever after that” so says Jane Mason who runs also empowers people in prison by teaching them bread baking skills . Their vouchers are available to buy and redeem on line and they have trainers are all over the UK.
River Cottage – Personally, I’d love to do sour dough or ‘pig in a day’ at this cookery school based in rural Dorset.
6. Calendars and photo books
Older people often don’t really want any more possessions but adore looking at pictures of their family. If I don’t make one of these for certain people each year I get complaints. I’ve used Boots and Kodak online with success. Someone is now doing it in the UAE too but I haven’t tried them out.
7. Edible presents
If you are thinking of making edible gifts, now’s the time to start – nearer the day you may not have time and some things improve with age. Preserved lemons need at least one month to mature. Lemon or other fruit curds are universally loved and so is gingerbread. Homemade vanilla essence or wine vinegar are simple to make. Wash and save nice jars with lids for pickles and preserves. Scour Daiso for interesting vessels.
Bonus tip: Jones the Grocer in Dubai has an edible foodie gift making class on 25th November
With town centres and shopping malls selling identikit items wherever you are in the world, something handmade and individual is so thoughtful and unique as a present”
Majlis market – the lovely Majlis Gallery has its Christmas market on Saturday 29th November and at the same time launches a beautiful new exhibition by Louis Jansen Van Vuuren. The gallery, situated in a beautiful traditional house in the Al Fahidi heritage district, celebrates its 25th anniversary this year. Read about a previous visit to the Christmas market here.
Arte is packed full of home-made items and quirky gifts by artists and crafters. I’ve bought sock monkeys, knitted jewellery and lovely fudge from Toffee Princess among other things. Find them at the Arabian Centre, Dubai on 20th. December. More details here.
Art House – you may drive past on the Al Wasl road and think that it’s just for picture framing. Stop and go inside – I’ve bought some of the nicest presents there in the past from money boxes in the shape of wind towers to beautiful jewellery and cards. The best place to get things framed too.
Bonus tip: The popular Jess Night Market is on November 28th
9. For dog lovers
Higher end of the budget but imagine their faces when you present a replica of their dog that’s this cute! They do gift vouchers too.
10. Spa pampering
My favourite SensAsia has some great ideas on their website offering ‘steal’ and ‘splurge’ ideas depending on budget. How about a ‘Cinnamon spice and all things nice’ body polish so you smell like Christmas? Still the best place for a hot stone massage in Dubai IMO.
Top for luxurious pampering is the Amara Spa at the Park Hyatt – each treatment room has its own tiny garden and shower amid the foliage. Gift certificates and packages available.
The treat of an indulgent Hammam treatment is also immensely appealing – a list of some hammams in Dubai I’d like to try here.
Bonus tip: If you act quickly, SensAsia’s Early Bird Christmas Gift Voucher Sale in on until today – Sunday November 23, offering 20% OFF every purchase.
11. VAT-free Christmas fashion
If things are sent to Dubai from the UK you don’t have to pay the 20% Value Added Tax. This is particularly brilliant when you order from Boden as there is a flat delivery fee of £12. What you save on the VAT more than covers the postage. If you subscribe by email they are always having discount offers too. No brainer for that Christmas outfit and gifts for him.
12. Christmas spice
My friend Arva has done it again. Not only did she come up with the idea of down-to-earth foodie tours of old Dubai (a Frying Pan adventure would make a great gift or office night out) but her guide to all the spices in the Spice Souk is encyclopedic. I am ordering ‘Unraveling the Souk” for so many people this Christmas.
Finally, don’t forget to have some little gifts bought and wrapped for last-minute, unexpected guests and occasions. January sales are very good for picking up nice items for gifting – but hey, I’m now planning ahead for next year and we’ve still got this Christmas to go.
Do you have any favourite ideas to add to this list? Go-to websites? Handy tips?
A week today I’ll be setting my alarm, checking my purse for change, jumping in the car with my jute bags, and driving down the deserted Sheikh Zayed Road. I know this route so well; I’ve followed it for countless Friday mornings only to take a break during the fallow summer season. I’ll turn right into Emirates Towers rear entrance and right into ballroom parking which will already be dotted with farmers’ vans. Ibrahim from The Farmhouse will wave as he crushes fresh pomegranates in an old-fashioned press for juice. The aroma of freshly baked bread mingled with the scent of herbs, spices from Down to Earth Organic and Ethiopian coffee beans will welcome me. A flat white will appear without asking from the Coffee Planet stall – they know my order.
The palm trees create dappled shade over the stalls and I’ll scan the tables, greeting each farmer as they proudly display the organic bounty from their fields. My brain is whirring as I visualise what I’ll cook throughout the coming week. At the start of the season they’ll be round squash in vivid yellow and stripy green – perfect for stuffing – green peppers, perfect shiny aubergines, crisp cucumbers, courgettes, sweetcorn wrapped in their husks, okra, radishes, kale, beetroot, green beans, chillies, pumpkin, coriander, mint, fenugreek and more. I try to share my purchases between the farmers and buy my free range eggs from a different one each week.
Shopping in season means that some things are missing but eagerly anticipated. Tomatoes when they ripen will be so much the sweeter for the wait. Bulging bags stacked in the car, I’ll return to sample something from the chef’s demo – the first week will be Chef Gabi Kurtz from Talise Nutrition who will transform produce from the market into healthy dishes. I may join the yoga or Thai Chi that’s starting up too, run by the Talise Wellness people.
A market breakfast from Baker and Spice is essential and I’ll sit at the recycled wooden benches with a runny egg dripping out of my chicken sausage roll – there is no way to eat this delicately.
Reading this back for editing, it sounds too glowing, too gushing. I just can’t help it. The market, where I buy direct from the people who grow my food, has transformed the way I shop and cook (and our household food bill reduces dramatically). The produce is so fresh that it easily lasts the week. Amazing raw Yemeni honey, beautiful olive oil from Astraea, and organic pantry items from Down to Earth means that I only have to shop elsewhere for meat, dairy and a bit of fruit.
I’m sitting here in blissful anticipation with a huge smile on my face. I was lucky enough to meet some of the farmers this week and take home a bag of produce. It’s a taste of things to come.
This is the sixth season of this wonderful market. I was there from the beginning for the first farmers’ market in Dubai and it’s a jewel in any terms that the city should be proud of. It’s sparked a whole movement so we have a range of choices now which back then seem impossible and unfeasible. There is only one farmers’ market though – and that’s where you’ll find me on Friday 28th November at 8am and every Friday until around the end of May.
Stuffed round squash (or courgettes) recipe
To stuff 13 squash I used 800g minced lamb, 340g short grain rice, a large bunch of fresh coriander leaves, a small bunch of fresh mint leaves, 3 cloves of garlic finely minced, 4 tablespoons of tomato puree and about 4 level tablespoons of Emirati B’zar spice mix (a type of local garam masala). The sauce used 4 cloves of whole garlic, 4 tablespoons tomato puree, 2 tins chopped tomatoes and water to come half-way up the sides of the squash. Season well. Cook the stuffed squash in the sauce for 45 minutes. Full recipe for stuffed courgettes here.
The Farmers’ Market on the Terrace
Where: Jumeirah Emirates Towers, Ballroom parking (plentiful, adjacent and free)
When: 8am – 12 noon. New season starts 28th November 2014 and runs until end of May.
About: A market for cooks and food lovers. Ten organic farm stalls (manned by farmers); Baker & Spice;
The Farm house; Slow food Dubai (including a plant swap); Coffee Planet; Balqees Raw Yemeni Honey; Boon Coffee and Sweet Connection (the gluten-free kitchen). Healthy cooking demos by chefs. Yoga and Thai Chi. Keep in touch by Facebook, Twitter or Instagram.
Other organic, local market options in Dubai:
Where: Central Courtyard, Souk Madinat Jumeirah (Parking free until 10am and then charged at AED 10 for the first hour and AED 5 for each subsequent hours)
When: Starting at 8am (from 6 December 2014)
About: Greenheart Organic Farms, The Farmhouse, Baker & Spice, Slow Food Dubai, Sweet Connection, Coffee Planet, Balqees Raw Yemeni Honey, Lootah Premuim Foods, Talise Spa, Fitness and Nutrition. Live cooking demos, fitness demos, mini yoga classes, skin care and juicing demos.
Blue Planet, Green People
Where: Jumeirah Lakes Towers (plus one in Al Ain)
When: 10am – 1pm every Friday (JLT Park) and Saturday (Cluster U)
About: A good option for fresh, local organic veg if you especially if you live in JLT. Buy direct from farmers.
Greenheart Pop Up Market
Where: Comptoir 101, Jumeirah Beach Road
When: 11am and 1pm every Saturday (from 22nd November 2014)
About: Organic, local produce from Greenheart’s farm managed by Elena Kinane plus organic Lebanese fruit.
Ripe Food and Craft Markets
Where: Zaabeel Park (plus others in Sharjah and Abu Dhabi)
When: 9am – 2pm every Friday
About: Organic imported and local veg sold (and imported fruit) by Ripe is part of a bigger market with many food and craft stalls.
Let me know if I’ve missed any…
Weekly veg photo
The other thing I’ll be returning to next week is unpacking my haul onto some sacking and photographing it before putting it all away (see examples above). It’s part of my ritual. I usually share on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter but I’m thinking of including it as a short, weekly post on My Custard Pie. What do you think? Would you like to see my purchases and a few thoughts about what I’m going to do with it? Would love your comments…Disclosure: This has been bothering me so I thought I ought to mention that I now do some (paid) work for Baker and Spice who are the market organisers. However I was a patron of the market long before I knew them, I visit the market and pay for my produce like every other shopper, my blog is an independent space for my thoughts, unconnected with my professional work and in fact they will only know about this post when I publish it. No one but me dictates my editorial calendar and content. All opinions most definitely my own.
instead of being in the stereotypical panicked and mucky-aproned host when your friends arrive clutching bottles, you are in a state of complete control and composure.
It was the latter part of this promise (and frequently being the person described in the former) that motivated me to buy James Ramsden’s first book Do-ahead Dinners. James is an unassuming looking young man with a homely face who looks like he’d be comfortable wearing a Christmas jumper all year round. Homely is apposite as he regularly invites hordes of people into his own dwelling and cooks supper for them. This persuaded me that he might have some wisdom to impart when cooking for numbers. There’s no patented secret; it’s all about getting as much done ahead as possible. I road-tested a few dishes and the results were excellent (especially the chicken Plov and zaatar carrots) so was eager to get my hands on Do-ahead Christmas when I got wind of its release.
Getting as much done ahead for Christmas makes sense. There is a pressure of the ‘best-ever’ food that people look forward to year after year, and James acknowledges this. For me though, there is nothing so off-putting as the military lists of planning that may have you freezing the whole feast six weeks ahead and strangling the joy out of festive cooking. I do like to start early with little tasks such as fruit marination in booze for cake, pudding and mincemeat under my belt in October and November.
This book doesn’t hector. There is gentle advice among the pages and in the introduction James says he’s reticent to dictate. He does suggest five of menus for a range of occasions (including the big day itself); I would actually like more of these suggestions.
Layout and look
I adore the styling with old-fashioned block printed wrapping paper and traditional, unblingy decorations forming the frontispiece and chapter intros. It takes me straight back to my childhood when things were less sophisticated and very much about a homemade celebration. It’s beautifully produced and would make a great Christmas gift. The first chapter dives straight into drinks, which is exactly how it is at my Christmas gatherings, and while many of the ideas would suit cooler climates than where I live, tangerine whisky sour and apple, ginger and cranberry virgin cocktail recipes are already bookmarked.
Advice and content
Freezing is given as an option for many main courses but not all recipes freeze ahead. Each recipe is structured into stages. Do ahead (this can be days or hours and gives a minimum) which can be several tasks spread out with guidelines of when to do them and finishing off. For instance the structure for preparing Gravlax on rye crispbread: up to one week ahead (min. 48 hours) make the gravlax; up to one week ahead (min. 4 hours) make the crispbread; up to a day ahead (min. 10 minutes) make the sour cream and horseradish dressing; to serve. There is also advice about scaling up for a crowd overall in the introduction and on some individual recipes. A Christmas day time plan is included as you’d expect – it’s not the most exhaustive I’ve ever seen – and again James exhorts you to adapt it to your own menu.
Recipes to make (or not)
Like all cookbooks, the appeal often rides on whether you share the same taste in food as the writer. James likes strong tastes and anchovies appear in four recipes. Dips and nuts all appear again with a different riff, but there is a more festive and luxurious slant to them. Coffee-roasted beetroot? Interesting…
The aforementioned gravlax on homemade crispbread is firmly on my Christmas planning list. Mini hassleback potatoes as a nibble for parties is a magnificent idea as are the cute little Christmas koftas (who can resist a meatball and these have creamy dip and festive red pomegranate seeds with green coriander leaves). Venison Wellington will be made if I can get my hands on some deer meat and the chocolate orange and hazelnut tart is currently vying for place with the Yule log recipe as the dried fruit haters alternative pudding. And thank you James – I was wondering whether you could actually roast sprouts! Left overs make an appearance and there is a lovely chapter on edible gifts.
However, I can never, ever envisage that I would serve cauliflower soup as a starter for Christmas day (although KP’s request for egg and lemon soup might sound very odd to most people). I would never contemplate making a homemade Eccles cake at any time of the year, let alone eating it with cheese after a Christmas feast.
Quite a few of the recipes are not something I’d include on or around Christmas as they just don’t coincide with my own traditions – but this is quite refreshing. There are no chipolatas or bacon rolls. One thing I cannot forgive James for though. There isn’t a single mention of a parsnip. Seasonal sacrilege!
Staying on my shelf?
My current Christmas culinary inspiration is taken from among the pages of Nigella’s Christmas, the chapter from Annie Bell’s In My Kitchen, recipes from Tamasin Day Lewis’s All you can Eat and a pile of old BBC Good Food, Good Housekeeping and Delicious magazines. Do-ahead Christmas combines some really fresh ideas with a backbone of celebration and tradition and some very good practical advice (without being dull or patronising). James includes his email address and Twitter so you can ask him questions direct which shows an openess and lack of pretence that’s apparent in the whole tone and style of the book. This is a definite keeper.
Thanks to Pavilion who published this book and sent me a review copy. All views my own.
How do you cope with Christmas cooking and are there any ‘go-to’ recipes or books you turn to?
Perhaps you think that I couldn’t possibly need another cookbook (I know KP does). Want? Yes. Need? Perhaps. However, within my groaning shelves there is one topic uncovered and that’s juices and smoothies. I’ve browsed various volumes but never been motivated enough to take one home.
Most juicing books are slender volumes but 1000 juices, green drinks and smoothies, in hardback, is the size of a normal cookbook (from Jamie for instance) and that’s the clue to what it contains. If I ever meet author Deborah Gray (or perhaps her editor) the first thing I’ll do is invite her round and bribe her to sort out my filing (with an option on my wardrobe, cupboards and life). Each chapter is based on a master recipe with variations. It’s a simple way of working but means that there are indeed 1000 ideas for assorted drinks.
What’s in the book?
Before you dive into the profusion of juicing ideas, the useful chapter on equipment, fruit and ingredients is well worth a read. It describes major fruit, vegetables and other additions such as natural sweeteners, dairy substitutes and flavourings. It gives the best way to prepare the fruit or veg and extract the juice, the calories contained and how much juice to expect per fruit plus the health benefits. It’s packed full of information, for instance did you know that the levulose sugar in pears is better tolerated by diabetics than most fruit sugars? A single carrot contains sufficient beta-carotene to supply a day’s worth of Vitamin A, promoting good eyesight and skin (read on to see why this is important).
Recipes and chapters
The chapters give more evidence that this is worth its shelf space: Breakfast Blends, Cleansing Drinks, Restorative Drinks, Super Energy Boosters, Thirst Quenchers, Milkshakes and Frozen Drinks, Perfect for Parties and Mocktails. It’s not all about abstemious self-denial and some recipes include frozen yoghurt, ice cream, coffee, sparkling water and even soda (boo) plus, in the party section, alcohol, but the main thrust of the book is on healthy drinks. Many are just ideas for fruit combinations especially in the juicing section.
When preparing a smoothie, I usually just make it up as I go along using what I have on hand. The ideas in this book too me way outside my usual repertoire. I’d never thought of blitzing lemon and garlic into a shot, or adding nuts to bananas, or using stewed fruit from the freezer. And lentils in a smoothie or rosewater with lychees? So much inspiration.
Green juices are my challenge. They are often too foamy or too thickly, greenly, off putting to be palatable. I would never have thought of putting broccoli with pear to balance the earthiness, or using fennel as a base (how good does fennel and lime sound?). The big green chiller is described ‘this wonderful concoction is a farmers’ market stall in a glass and contains cucumber, celery, courgettes, kale, spinach, coriander, lime and ginger. My local farmers’ market starts for the season on 28th November and I’ll be bringing armfuls of ingredients back with a few to gulping down some in a glass.
I asked veggie teen what she thought about the book and she was very impressed. However, she said ‘Mum, you must have a job reading this, the type is SO small.” And indeed she is right. The ingredients list in the lead recipe is 8 point at the most (if not 7 or even teeny weeny 6) and I peer at it even when wearing my glasses. The cost of cramming all this information into one book.
Staying on my shelf?
Absolutely. Font size aside, this is beautifully produced with lovely images and absolutely packed full of ideas which are organised within an inch of their lives. This is probably the only juices, smoothies and drinks book you’ll ever need it is so extensive. This means more room for other cookbooks right?
The best tools for juicing and smoothie-ing?
Could you eat 4 apples in one go? I know I couldn’t, but drinking the juice of four is easy. This is good and bad. Eating whole fruit is healthier for you than juicing because you get the fibre. While sugar in fruits and vegetables is not a bad thing in normal quantities, it’s easy to ingest far greater quantities if juiced than in a smoothie or eaten raw. Juices and smoothies are a great way to make sure you get your five (or seven a day) but like all things, best in moderation.
Therefore I do not own a juicer. I’ve tested them and owned one for a while, but the washing up is just too arduous. You can juice effectively in a power blender (I have a Vitamix). Cut the fruit up into small pieces, add some water (water is good for you too) and blend until smooth. You can drink it as it is or strain through muslin or a fine mesh sieve. The washing up is done in a trice and you get more fibre. I’ve never tried this with wheatgrass!
For small quantities of citrus fruit you can’t beat an old-fashioned lemon squeezer. The lime squeezer is quick, easy and lovely to look at. I wouldn’t save it in a flood but like owning it (thank to Sarah). For larger quantities of citrus, this Cuisinart press is the best I’ve found. Many are absolutely huge (you need it on the counter) with lots of working parts, not this one. The lid, strainer and press part simply lift off and you can wash in the top section of the dishwasher. The spout can be lifted up and down to stop the juice flow and means you can juice directly into a jug or glass. By putting the lid on and pressing down you can extract more juice and pulp.
Thanks to the Quarto group who published this book and sent me a review copy. All views my own.
Would you find room on your shelf for a book about juices, smoothies and drinks? What do you use for juicing (ingredients or equipment)?
How I wish you could be present at tonight’s dinner party in your honour. The brainchild of the High Priestess of Silver Screen gourmet glamour herself, Jenny of Silver Screen Suppers, glittering gatherings are happening across the globe. Cocktail glasses will be raised, and platters covered with a menu of your making. The recipes tonight are all yours Joan and alas not a morsel will cross your lips. But would I really want you as a guest at my table Joan? You invented self-promotion on a scale that Lady Gaga could only dream of. I have a horror of that kind of ‘push’ and I’m sure you’d sense it and dislike me on the spot too – your heavy-lidded gaze turning frosty. And the ice on your heart too Joan. How could you strike your adopted children out of your will especially as you treated them so cruelly. Or did you? What is the real truth?
I’d like to give you the benefit of the doubt; that beneath the glamour and acting, you weren’t a totally cold creature. Because of food. People who love to cook, who love to eat, who love to share and feed others, can’t be all bad. These recipes are from a treasury of your culinary creations put together by Jenny and soon to be immortalized in a cookbook.
I’ve tinkered with your original Joan. Even such an icon as yourself could not tempt me to use potted ham. But I think you’d approve of the salty blue cheese melted over a sweet, limey, chilli paste with the refreshing sweet slice of fresh pear. It’s the perfect simple appetiser to go with an ice-cold martini that’s named after you made of gin, vermouth and strega with a grapefruit twist. Or there’s a Joan Crawford Cosmo too. Great for a dinner party or an intimate meal for two.
“I need sex for a clear complexion, but I’d rather do it for love.” – Joan Crawford
Blue cheese and pear Dante chips
- 1 pack of plain tortilla chips (wholemeal or blue corn would be good)
- 3-4 tablespoons of Lime & Chilli Exotic fruit for cheese from The Fine Cheese Co or other fruit paste for cheese
- 100g Roquefort or other medium blue cheese
- 1-2 ripe pears
- Preheat the oven to 200 C. Line a baking tray or two with baking parchment. Lay as many tortilla chips as you want to use over the tray. With the back of a teaspoon spread a thin coating of fruit paste over each chip.
- Crumble a small amount of blue cheese on each tortilla chip; a scant 1/2 – 3/4 teaspoon on each is sufficient as the cheese is so salty.
- Put the trays of tortilla chips on the top shelf of the oven for a few minutes until the cheese is melted. Cut the pears in quarters and remove the core, then slice and cut each slice in half. Place a sliver of pear on each tortilla chip. Serve.
- For a party, you could assemble the tortilla chips ahead of time and keep the pear slices in acidulated water (with lemon juice) to stop them from turning brown. While the Dante chips are in the oven, drain the pear and pat dry on kitchen paper.
I used beautiful, juicy, ripe pears from Turkey for this (seasonal in the region) – perfect for Simple and in Season by Ren Behan hosted by Katie of Feeding Boys and a Firefighter. Do visit for loads of seasonal inspiration.
If you’d still like to be a part of the Joan Crawford glamour email joan(at)silverscreensuppers.com for the recipes. If you send photos or your party and Joan dish or a link to your post to Jenny by Monday November 17th you’ll be in the draw for a copy of her Joan Crawford book. Join in the virtual fun on Twitter @silverscreensup #joancrawfordcookbook. To quote Jenny, “Have a glorious time sprinkling star dust around your kitchens my lovelies!”