Hello, hello. No surprises that my first recipe of the year is a salad. The Christmas cake, Lindt chocolate, Sauternes and Stilton mountain is still yet to be conquered in our house – and I don’t mean the one residing round my middle (but I’m starting on that). I grabbed assorted visitors from our house and headed off virtously early to the Farmer’s Market as always this Friday. One of the delights of shopping there is the banter that goes on at the stalls. It’s a multi-cultural information exchange with the farmer and shoppers all from different ethnic and culinary backgrounds.
“What is this?” and “What do you do with this?” are common questions and evoke a myriad of answers depending who you are next to. Kohlrabi often mystifies people and my own experience of eating it probably started with the market.
A carpaccio of kohlrabi, thinly sliced on a mandoline, doused with an olive oil and lemon juice dressing, scattered with a few fresh herbs was my starting point. Since then it’s crept up in many of my salads – I think it needs a little sweet or sour to balance the slight cabbagey taste. I’ve roasted in segments and sliced into gratins recently and it’s a revelation. More of that soon… but in the meantime a little idea for your lunch at home or to go.
A Ploughman’s lunch traditionally consists of a chunk of cheese, an apple, possibly some chutney and a hunk of bread. It’s the ultimate picnic lunch for a worker. This is a lighter healthier salad idea using fresh kohlrabi which is in season locally right now here in Dubai. It’s more of an idea than a recipe – feel free to grate or spiralize the kohlrabi or use a different dressing (a mint and yoghurt for instance). And don’t chuck the greens – they can be thinly sliced and sauteed, juiced or smoothied too.
Ploughman's salad with kohlrabi, apple and Cheddar
- 2 tablespoons of edible argan oil (I use Arganic) or extra virgin olive oil
- Juice of ½ lemon
- ½ teaspoon sea salt (or to taste)
- freshly ground black pepper
- 1 small fresh kohlrabi
- 1 crisp eating apple (Cox’s orange Pippin would be good)
- 60g mature Cheddar cheese
- a small handful of dried cranberries, walnuts or pecans (optional)
- A few sprigs of parsley, leaves picked and finely chopped (optional)
- Combine the oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper together in a bowl.
- Peel the kohlrabi, cut it into thin matchsticks and toss immediately with the dressing in the bowl.
- Cut each side off the apple (so the core is cut out as a rectangle). Slice into fine slivers. Add to the bowl and toss well to stop the apple from going brown.
- Cut the Cheddar into sticks and fold (with the cranberries or nuts if using) into the other ingredients.
- Sprinkle chopped parsley over the top.
Any New Year eating resolutions? How do you like to eat kohlrabi?
Are you writing a whole list of New Year’s resolutions? Do you find it helpful, inspiring or another stick to beat yourself with? I’m easing myself out of my ‘everything on a list’ comfort zone and focusing on a word. Sounds a bit strange? Here’s why:
A while ago, a new friend walked into my kitchen for the first time and sighed with relief. “Oh it’s not as perfect as I thought it would be.” She’d seen the photos on my blog which, taken by a talented photographer with a bit of diffused lighting, doesn’t show the cabinet doors hanging off their hinges, the worn chairs, the notes stuck up with magnets, the tray of bottles balanced on top of the fridge, the ancient micro-wave, the mismatched pots and all the other things that show it’s a real kitchen at the heart of our home rather than a show kitchen.
My friend’s comment filled me with relief as I’m always a bit embarrassed about the slightly too cluttered surfaces, the inability to fit all the food and implements neatly into the cupboard space available which must be the curse of every keen cook. Looking at my kitchen you wouldn’t think that I’m a perfectionist but in my head I am and – I’ve had a light bulb moment since I read this post by Fat Mum Slim. It’s hard living this way and spending a huge amount of emotional energy constantly letting yourself down.
Kinder to me: to stop being so hard on myself; to look after my health by eating well and not missing my newly found love of yoga.
Kinder to others: Not be impatient, to understand more and put myself in their shoes.
Yes. It’s a kind of mindfulness and if you want to know more about this I recommend Ruby Wax’s Sane New World.
Making better pastry, mastering sour dough, dusting off my pasta machine, learning more about Emirati cuisine, cooking something Georgian, learning more about Polish cookery, making more stock, baking more pies, cooking fish more often…. all these things are recurring resolutions which crop up year after year.
However…. I’m not putting them on a list this time. Instead I’m pinning up my food manifesto and trying to stay true to it.
Savour every bite… of ingredients, of food, of life. Let’s greet 2015 together, wide-eyed with excitement, grinning with pleasure, enjoying every last morsel of whatever comes our way…. Happy New Year.
At the annual summer fête in my village there was always a bran tub. You plunged your hand into a barrel full of sawdust and pulled out a lucky dip prize and found out what it was when you tore off the coloured tissue paper. My house is still full of visitors; good friends, my Mother-in-law, elder teen back from University after her first term. There is work, food, fun, eating out and general merriment. The usual way I look back through the year, inspecting each month, looking at my site visits and combing my images for the best ones – well that’s in the bin. I’m glancing back at 2014 rather like my childhood visits to the bran tub – a bit random but with a few nice surprises. It’s good for me to suppress my inner perfectionist too – part of my resolutions for 2015. So here are some moments from My Custard Pie from 2014 with a few reminiscences in between.
Talking of my Mother-in-law, she is the Queen of stuffed veg and I’m trying hard to steal her crown. The most popular recipe posted in 2014 was about this incredibly moreish way of stuffing courgettes. So moreish that I never get to photograph them cooked. My favourite easy appetiser is a kind of stuffed veg too. From December until April our menus are dictated by the local, organic produce at the Farmers’ Market in Dubai and this vegetable soup crops up a lot. When I was in the UK we cooked with produce from the Stroud Farmers Market and made this fettuce with butternut squash, sage and smoked garlic. And when the fennel is fresh and local, this salad is divine. Everyone loved these Iranian sweet and sour olives, veggie teen approved of this tomato, lentil and spinach vegetarian lasagne and I combined some of my favourite flavours to make Dante chips for a fantastic event with Silver Screen Suppers. Only one solitary recipe for bread (bad Sally) but this no-knead loaf is a good when time is at a premium. And I promise to keep my word about preserved lemon recipes in 2015! Fruit and veg bakes were a theme: Pear, ginger and raw honey flapjacks, cranberry and courgette loaf, cherry almond spelt muffins and I celebrated four years of blogging with the easiest custard recipe. Writing this while eating the last of the chocolate truffles – blowing my own trumpet about how good these were.
My visit to Georgia has actually changed my life – in the sights, sounds, experiences, food, wine and people I met there. Returning for sure in 2015 and can’t recommend a visit highly enough. And who knew that I’d marvel at my first impressions of India in Jaipur and then return to Rajasthan with four organic farmers. Laying on a marble slap being massaged with bubbles is my idea of heaven; a wonderful weekend in Istanbul included a first visit to a hammam. Maybe living with continuous sunshine makes me see beauty in inclement English weather. This fish course in Devon was fantastic. As always, I had a blissful few weeks in my home country of the UK, especially the bits I spent in hiking boots pottering about the countryside. Rather than going away, sometimes you need to see your own home through the eyes of a traveller; What a visit to the Creek revealed about Dubai
People are often confused about buying booze in the UAE so I put them straight! I leap at every occasion to try new wines to further my knowledge and wine tasting experience (ahem). 2014 brought so many amazing opportunities to taste fine wines (thank you Le Clos) including this one. I also met some serious whisky nuts this year via Glenmorangie and Kilchoman tastings. And I enjoyed some stellar cocktails including these festive ones. Raising a glass to The Good Spirited Women of Dubai… There seem to be new wine days cropping up every year, which is another good excuse to keep learning and tasting. I joined in with Merlot, Beaujolais and Grenache. This has to be the most inspiring wine story of 2014 and I’ve started my New Year resolution to taste unusual grape varieties and new wines early thanks to this. These wine tweets are still making me chuckle….
My kind of shopping is at the local, organic farmers’ market in Dubai. There are more options for buying local, organic veg in Dubai, outside the main growing season too. It’s wonderful how this community is evolving.
When I’m in the UK, food is still a focus and I really enjoyed Flavour Fest Plymouth despite the rain. On dining in the UK capital I’m no expert, but I know plenty of people who are and asked them “Where to eat and drink in London“. But I do know Where to eat British food in Dubai. With a month to go until the next Dubai Food Festival, it’ll be interesting to see what they’ve learned from the first one; I certainly enjoyed a few courses. And it was definitely an action packed autumn!
My shelves are even more laden after 2014 and I was lucky enough to review some beautiful cookery titles. Here’s my recommendation for cook books and food writing to read in bed. I visited Azerbaijan, Iran and Egypt through the pages of cook books via the Pomegranate connection. Bread, a juicing bible and the best book ever for getting ahead at Christmas are keepers. I felt the fear and did it anyway … and interviewed Prue Leith. Off to put on my disco heels for a night with The Jacksons, Jocelyn Brown, Incognito, Chaka Khan, Chic and others (yes – live and all on one bill). So all that’s left is to wish you a Happy New Year, thank you for sticking with me in 2014 and sharing my journey through food, wine and everything else. See you on the other side in 2015….
We’ll walk the dog and then KP, his Mum and I will have smoked salmon and scrambled eggs while the teens hold their noses (anti-fish). Present opening will be followed by an hour on the beach complete with tiny Christmas tree, a cup of tea in a flask (maybe I’ll tuck something else in there too). Then it’s back for the main feast, turkey with all the trimmings and trimmings and trimmings. Our lovely neighbours will pop in for drinks … then sixteen of us will sit down at a long, long table. It’s a core crowd that goes back almost twenty years to days in Saudi Arabia and we’re celebrating our friendship, backgrounds and beliefs – six people will be avoiding the ham and sausages. Teen friends may or may not drop in, we’ll probably play games.
Are you thinking of whipping up a Christmas cocktail this year? The festive season is the perfect time to get a bit frivolous with a delicious mixture of aromas and flavours, simple and elegant, with a beautiful decoration – just like the perfect gift-wrapped present… and a little kick to set you up for the fun, laughter and friendship to follow. I’ve been inspired by a fantastic cocktail-making session I went to last December at Gaucho in Dubai. It’s a restaurant oozing with over the top glamour – all black, white and mirrors. The food and atmosphere are always superb, and the wine list really unique…consisting of predominantly Argentinian wines (more about that in another post). But first the cocktails. These are super easy to make and all amazingly sippable. Thanks to the wonderful bartender Amol who made these gorgeous cocktails watched us get sillier and sillier as the class progressed.
Maldemores -Tato Giovannoni
You’ll need 25ml of pear and Torrontés syrup.
To make this take one sliced pear and combine with half a litre of Torrontés wine and 300 g sugar, boiled together make a syrup. Let the wedges of pear infuse in the syrup.
Pour 50 ml of Malamado (this is a fortified Malbec but you could also use port) into a champagne glass
Top up with 50 ml of Champagne
Use the pear from the syrup as a garnish.
Christmas daiquiri (by Amol)
37.5 ml Sailor Jerry spiced rum
25 ml fresh lime juice
37.5 ml mulled wine syrup (see below)
Shake and double strain in martini glass.
Garnish with a strip of orange zest
Mulled wine syrup
- 500 ml of Malbec
- 10 g of cloves
- 10 g of star anise
- 4 cm of cinnamon stick
- one whole orange peel
Make a bouquet garni (tie in muslin cloth) with the spices and drop into the wine. Add 300 g of sugar. Bring to the boil, cover and reduce the syrup to around 300ml on a very slow flame.
Remove the bouquet garni from the syrup when desired flavour is extracted from spices.
Gaucho Espresso martini
- 37.5ml vanilla vodka
- 25ml Khalua
- Shot of espresso
Shake and double strain into a martini glass.
Add 12.5ml Frangelico for more flavour and shake very hard and fast in order to get a very good froth and less dilution.
All these cocktails are simple to make and fantastic for feeling frivolously festive. Try them at home or, if you get the chance, go in and sip one at Gaucho. If you are celebrating, have a wonderful Christmas. Do you have a favourite Christmas cocktail?
Disclosure: I was a guest of Gaucho Dubai for the Christmas cocktail making class but not obliged to write about it or say nice things.
Are you one of those people who have all your Christmas presents bought by the beginning of November? Do you wrap as you buy so you don’t have a last minute rush? I always intend to be that person and get off to a good start by buying stocking presents for my girls in Rossiters, a lovely, independent, department store in Bath, during August. I also tuck little presents away for KP as I find them throughout the year. Aren’t men SO difficult to buy for? I start thinking about my Christmas cooking at the beginning of September and at the very least start marinating some dried fruit in liqueur ready for cake and puddings. But wrapping? Despite my best resolutions, it always ends up being a concentrated few hours very near to Christmas day. In fact it’s become a ritual. As long as I have BBC Radio 4 as background listening I can wield tape, scissors and paper with military precision. Lots of tea, a glass of sherry and a slice of something moreish, also helps the time to pass bearably.
My Canadian friend Lee (who has all her shopping done and wrapped by early November) gave me this recipe near on two decades ago. It’s taken me that long to make it and now I’m wondering why. Moist, sharp, slightly sweet, the texture of the nuts and the gleaming cranberries combining in a crumbly loaf. I’ve converted it from volume to weighed measurements (i.e. cups to grams) and guessed at the amount of sugar as it was left out in the ingredients list. I’ve called it a loaf (rather than bread) as it’s cake-like in texture and not made with yeast. Believe me, it’s really good – you can eat it without any guilt whatsoever as it contains at least two of your five a day.
Wholemeal cranberry courgette loaf
- 45g softened, unsalted butter
- 200g dark brown sugar
- 2 large eggs
- zest of an orange, grated
- 225g cranberry sauce
- 225g whole cranberries
- 160g wholemeal flour
- 150g plain flour
- 1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
- 2 teaspoons baking powder
- 240g courgette, peeled and grated coarsely
- 100g walnuts, coarsely chopped
- Preheat the oven to 160 C
- Grease and flour a loaf tin.
- Beat the butter, sugar and eggs together until well combined and slightly fluffy.
- Stir in the grated orange zest, cranberry sauce and cranberries.
- Fold the flours, bicarbonate of soda and baking powder in the the mixture until just combined. Do not overmix.
- Lightly fold in the grated courgette and chopped walnuts.
- Spoon the mixture into the tin and gently level the surface.Bake for about 1 hour (or until a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean or with a crumb attached).
- Turn out of the tin and cool on a rack. Serve plain or spread with unsalted butter.
It may seem a bit odd to start making New Year’s resolutions about wine right now – and especially one that involves drinking more of it. Actually it’s the continuation of a constant resolution, a quest to keep learning, exploring and knowing more about the wonderful, endlessly fascinating world of wine…. and this involves tasting as many different and new wines as possible.
I’ve always thought this was a bit difficult here in Dubai. As everything is shipped in and it’s a relatively small market, we tend to get mainstream wines, big brands and very familiar grape varieties. I’d love to join the Wine Century Club which you can join if you’ve tasted 100 grape varieties (see my friend Erin’s account of getting through her century) but considered this pretty impossible in the U.A.E. So I was genuinely pleased to see the new ‘discover’ collection at MMI.
To quote the leaflet:
With wine, make sure you try something new as often as possible….
…don’t just stick to your favourite wine of brand because it’s safe – your new favourite bottle is out there waiting to be discovered.
So you can guess how intrigued I was opening the sample box of the discover wine selection (for November and December) that MMI sent me.
Let’s look at the whites.
- Are you surprised if I say that the Greek wine was the one I was itching to open first? Forget Retsina or dodgy wines you’ve sipped while on a package holiday. This wine is from beautiful Santorini; the wind whistles up and over the island so the Assyrtiko vines are trained in a basket shape to protect them. Grown using organic farming methods, with old vines on volcanic soil this is bone dry, citrussy with a tiny hint of green olives. Not an overly complex wine but balanced and superbly drinkable. Domaine Sigalas Asssyrtiko reminded me of a fino sherry without the yeasty notes (if that makes sense) and would be fantastic with olives and salty or fishy nibbles. It’s firmly on my list to buy again.
- I know the Martín Códaz Albariño well, it’s from the Rias Baixas region of Spain (pronounce it all with your tongue between your teeth) and adore it. Again it’s crisp, dry and very elegant with orchards of lemons, lime and grapefruit with a touch of stone fruit on the nose. It’s the perfect aperitif and is wonderful with seafood. I tasted an Albariño (by Paco & Lola Arousana) with a sea bass crudo and a prawn tartare at Sea Fu the other evening and it was the perfect pairing with these fairly acidic dishes. Definitely one to discover if you haven’t already…
- …and this also applies to the Laurenz V Singing Grüner Veltliner from Austria (a magnum of this will be making an appearance at our Christmas dinner). Aromatic, refreshing but balanced with a bit of creaminess.
- If you are struggling to get your tongue round the name Grüner Veltliner, give up and just grab the leaflet and point to the Moncaro Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classica ‘La Vele’ if ordering. When studying Italy for my wine exams it was easily the most difficult country. But I digress – looking forward to tasting this wine and while not expecting it to blow my socks off, the refreshing acidity of the Verdicchio grape means it could be, potentially, my new house wine for pouring to visitors who won’t drink anything other than Sauvignon Blanc. Here’s hoping….
- I have no idea what to expect from the Nadaria Grecanico (made from a grape variety brought to Sicily by the Greeks centuries ago); bargain basement price so not expecting wonders but who knows….
- The Freixenet Mia Blanco is made from some of the main grapes that go into Cava and is slightly sweet…. Let’s see. Could be a crowd pleaser (thinking back to the Moscato at a ladies lunch that had everyone swooning).
Onto the reds….
- …and the only one I’ve tasted before is the Zuccardi Serie A Malbec which is great value, full-bodied, bursting with black cherries, with structured tannins and leaves your teeth satisfyingly purple.
- I’ve longed to taste more Portuguese wine (bucket list wine trip) so the Casa Ferreirinha Papa Figos from the Douro will be the first I’m going to try.
- As a Southern Rhone lover I’m always attracted to the luscious juicy grenache grape and similarly drawn to its Spanish equivalent garnacha. The Pablo Old vine Garnacha from high altitude vineyards in Calatayud in Spain has the potential to be a fantastic match for your Christmas turkey. Hand harvested from 100-year-old bush vines, I’m hoping this good value red is a juicy, berry explosion. I’d better try it pronto (or should I say rápidamente).
- And talking of Rhone blends, the Spanish Campo de Borja from Penelope Sanchez is made of both Garnacha and Syrah. Not sure about the look of the label… but this is what ‘discover’ is all about.
- Tasting wine on a visit to Istanbul this year (read The Hedonista’s account) was a great experience but bringing some home prohibitively expensive so excited to see K of Kapadokia on the list. Drinking it must be easier than pronouncing the grape varieties of Öküzgözü and Boğazkere.
- Finally if you think wine from China is obscure you might be surprised to hear that it is now the fifth largest producer of wine in the world. This is my first taste so let’s see what I make of the Changyu Cabernet Gernischt…..
If you fancy trying any (or all) of these in Dubai or (RAK) just ask for the discover leaflet in MMI stores.
Bonus tips for obtaining your tipple in Dubai this festive season
- KP arranges an annual golf game in Al Hamra Ras Al Khaimah a couple of weeks before Christmas which is handy as you pass right past the door of The Cellar. There have to be a few compensations for golf widows – start dropping those hints about 18 holes by the sea now.
- Seasonal visitors arriving by plane? Call Le Clos, ( 04 220 3633) order and pay for your fine wines, then give the details of the incoming flight. There are some excellent 12 days of Christmas offers right now. Your visitors have a five bottle allowance each that you can make the most of. Otherwise drop big hints about this allowance and the availability of duty free in arrivals.
- Book your Smart Drive now, as it’s going to be busy.
Thanks to MMI for these samples – I had no obligation to write about them and I’ll give you an honest opinion about which ones I liked (or not).
Do you like discovering new wines? If not, what stops you from trying out something different?