What’s hot and what’s not – food and drink in the UAE in 2012

Image by livingonimpulse

In the spirit of looking forward, I thought it would be fun to do a bit of crystal ball gazing about the food and drink scene in the United Arab Emirates.  There have been a few articles online about global trends but is it different in a place eager to cement its place as the trading hub of the Middle East?  Here’s the view from some movers and shakers (or should I say tipplers and tasters?) plus my own Mystic Meg contribution.

First a bit of background if you are not so familiar with this part of the world – click here to get straight to the forecasts.

View from the Burj Khalifa, Dubai

The U.A.E.’s rapid expansion has been well-documented.  Dubai has grown from a sleepy town on the edge of the creek, that I encountered when I arrived in 2000, to a buzzing metropolis complete with state of the art infrastructure, crazy off-shore developments and the tallest building in the world.   Abu Dhabi has its share of incredible projects too from the carbon-neutral city of Masdar to Saadiyat Island.

As the U.A.E. population is dominated by expatriates of all nationalities and income levels and with the economy partly fuelled by the tourist trade, the food and drink scene reflects this,  from what you find on the supermarket shelves to the huge variety of eating out venues (there are almost 900 restaurants listed on Time Out Dubai).  As a desert country with five days of rain a year, most food-stuffs are imported and ‘local’ produce can mean anywhere in the GCC (not just from the UAE).

Eating out ranges from some of the most stunning locations in the world, celebrity chef endorsements to shawarma stands and every fast food chain you care to mention (to the detriment of the health of the Emirati population).  You can drink alcohol if you are a non-muslim and hold an alcohol license and, if outside the home if it’s a licensed premises.  As licenses are given to hotels and clubs, the cheap eateries tend to be dry.  One thing’s for sure,  it’s a vibrant and changing food scene with new restaurants opening every week, food and cookery events every month of the year, new food magazines being launched and more than 90 food bloggers in the UAE.  The world recession hasn’t slowed it down – although food prices have definitely seen a hike.

I asked Food and Travel writer James Brennan, the force behind Lafayette Gourmet’s events Harriet Bardsley, writer and wine expert Sarah Walton, Mahiki marketeer Harry Santa-Olalla, restaurant reviewer supremo Samantha Wood (aka Foodiva), MMI’s Head of Wine Tony Dodds and cheap eats champion Arva Ahmed which food and drink trends will be ascending faster than the lift in the Burj Khalifa in the UAE in 2012 and what will be resigned to the culinary doldrums.

What’s hot in 2012?

James Brennan: Could we be moving into a new phase for homegrown restaurants in the UAE? Dubai’s Okku now has more awards than pulsating purple jellyfish. Wild Peeta is another Dubai start-up conceived and driven by locals. And Table9 is proving that you don’t need a world-famous celebrity chef’s name above the door to win plaudits.

Okku, Wild Peeta, Scott and Nick fromTable 9

Harriet Bardsley: Getting really good value for money will continue to influence customer behaviour in 2012 but people still want to have fun and eat great food.  Simple classics from earlier eras will be a big thing, especially 80’s-style traditional dishes like lasagna, prawn cocktail and kedgeree…and large portions too.

Learning to cook is having a massive resurgence so people can eat good food at home and feed their children healthily.  Cookery classes will be the new ‘going-out’ in 2012 (Lafayette Gourmet is holding some soon) as well as staying in for a special home-cooked meal (cheaper and more romantic than a fancy restaurant).

Picnics and hampers will be big in 2012 – not only stylish and economical but healthy too – get out more and enjoy the ‘ outside’!   Healthy eating will be even more of a focus this year.  There’s also a spirit of ‘seize the moment’ as who knows what the future will bring.  Getting to know new cultures through food in this country of 147 different nationalities is on many people’s ‘bucket lists’ – and that includes experiencing traditional Emirati cuisine.

I can see technology influencing and the  way people eat and order evolving – ipad menu anyone?!  It’s only a matter of time.

Lasagna, picnics and Emirati food

Harry Santa-Olalla: 2011 saw the start of an influx of London-based food and beverage brands into Dubai including Mahiki, Embassy, Gaucho and Siddharta Lounge and I see this trend continuing in 2012 including the launch of Mo*Vida.  Londoners have come to expect a new level of added-value service, for instance Mahiki takes the experience to a whole new level with our mad shows, highly trained theatrical bar staff and standard of service.  The juices for our cocktails are freshly squeezed that day from the best fruit e.g. whole pineapples.  It’s the exact opposite of just having an ordinary experience with a cocktail served to you on a tray.

Good ingredients and attention to detail will be under the spotlight in 2012.    The sharing concept will also continue to rise in popularity – it’s the sociable experience of sharing platters and cocktails.

Pina Colada

Samantha Wood: I’m predicting an increased demand and supply of locally sourced produce mainly vegetables and fruit, and in some cases organic, fuelled by the growth in farmers markets.
Also they’ll be more and more home-based artisan producers whether cakes, chutney or chocolate.
Home-grown cafe concepts have been abundant in the UAE for a while, but we are now seeing more locally developed fine dining restaurant concepts take form with the likes of Table 9 at Hilton Dubai Creek. Having said that, the celebrity chef trend will still continue fuelled by a primarily expat population. Gary Rhodes is opening at St Regis Abu Dhabi Corniche this year (Rhodes 44) fusing Arabic influences into his cuisine, and five chefs from Michelin-star restaurants in the US and Europe (total of 12 stars) will descend on Dubai for a gala dinner at Sofitel Dubai Jumeirah in April.
They’ll be more ‘chefs for hire’ setting up businesses in the U.A.E. to meet demand for home entertainment.
And we’re going to see more technology-driven restaurant experiences from online restaurant reservations to i-pad menus.
The growth of the UAE food blogging/ social media scene is giving consumers increased access to impartial online reviews.

Artisan chutney, local vegetables, ipad menus

Sarah Walton: On one hand, this place is still too new to discover its own direction, and is still aping other markets. Saying that, I see a rise in better quality Middle-Eastern food, particularly old-fashioned U.A.E. cuisine. The world movement taking people back to their natural roots will eventually catch on here, and so food that is geographically and historically relevant will be on the rise, particularly in the home. Organic and local will continue in growth, as it should. If any other cuisine sees a distinct rise in popularity, I would expect it to be the fresh and lively (and also healthy) flavours of countries like Vietnam – seafood, aromatic herbs, citrus etc.

Drinks will follow this trend – light, traditional cocktails, simpler than previous years, and light, aromatic wines – moving towards a drier and more neutral finish.

Vietnamese food, local organic produce and lighter wines

Tony Dodds: I can’t see customers’ enthusiasm for Sauvignon Blanc slowing down in 2012 – it was the most popular varietal in 2011, but perhaps the ABC (anything but Chardonnay) trend will finally slow down with people turning more towards unoaked-styles.  In red wine, Malbec and Merlot are the grapes gaining more popularityand both Malbec and Torrontes from Argentina are ‘hot’ varieties here at the moment.  Argentina will be the place to watch in wine-making terms, there are a lot of exceptionally good wines coming from there right now.  However, don’t underestimate the appeal of France; in these times of uncertainty perhaps people are harking back to a gentler age through their wine choices.  On the other hand we expect the 2011 growth in sparkling wine and champagne to continue so someone’s celebrating!

Dom Perignon Champagne

Arva Ahmed: Wholesome falafel joints that have spread their tahini all over the city. The usual Lebanese suspects like Al Mallah and Al Hallab make the list, but in addition, more yuppie quick-lunch joints, namely Just Falafel and Dukkan Falafel, are starting to attack the mainstream appetite by invading petrol pumps and other hot spots all over Dubai.

There’s there’s also a trend into Pakistani kabab fast food joints which looks set to continue in 2012.

Falafel

Sally – My Custard Pie: The organic and local produce scene has flourished in 2011 and things are only going to get better.  Ripe and the Souk al Bahar organic farmer’s market are now permanent fixtures with a loyal following.  Consumer demand will influence the choice of what’s on offer, for example kale has been grown locally for the first time this year.  Farmers will start to experiment with new varieties and a bigger range of locally grown fruit and vegetables.

New artisan food producers seem to appear every week – who could have predicted that even two years ago (when it was just Toffee Princess and LilyBakes)?  I’m loving food made with passion like the Italian Dairy Company and the proliferation of really good bakers.  Talking of bread – the choice is now enormous; I’m looking forward to new flavours and shapes from places like Baker & Spice, Crumbs and Le Succes in 2012 – and home delivery will increase…who can resist someone arriving with fresh bread?  The cheese scene is exciting too with Jones the Grocer setting the standard but Lafayette Gourmet hot on their heels and a gorgeous range of French cheese available at Finer Things (Umm Al Qwain).  Maybe someone will start making some really good local camel-milk cheese?

As far as eating out goes, breakfast is the new brunch if the throngs of diners at Baker & Spice, Lime Tree Cafe and Jones the Grocer on a Friday morning are anything to go by.  Simple food done exceptionally well is the key – try the Baker & Spice shakshuka, Jones the Grocer’s home-made yoghurt and fruit or their creamy porridge.   And unlicensed cheap eats with simple food, especially if in a quirky location will do extremely well (see Bu Qtair, Aappa Kadai and don’t forget good old Ravis of course).

I agree with Harriet that cooking classes are in – they will proliferate in 2012 but please no cheffy stuff…good home cooking is what’s in demand (Dima’s kitchen for instance).

While I think supermarket price wars in the UK are incredibly damaging due to the power the big four wield, it would be good to see a bit more competition here in the UAE.  With Carrefour’s expansion, perhaps prices of some of the basics will at least stabilise.

Artisan bread, shakshuka at Baker & Spice, locally made and imported cheese

What’s not in 2012?

James Brennan: So, if homegrown concepts are in, perhaps the UAE will stop trying to validate its food offering with watered-down big-name franchises from abroad in 2012?

Harriet Bardsley: Expensive, lavish and over-the-top eating out…plus the demise of the cupcake?  Hello cake pops…!

Harry Santa-Olalla: The added-value drive from Europe is having an impact and outlets won’t be able to keep giving standard service at over-the-top prices.

Samantha Wood: They’ll be a move away from traditional, rich cuisine whether that’s a roast carvery or heavy sauces to simpler food, sharing plates, tapas-style….

Sarah Walton: Heavy food…and for drink, sweet and heavy will be out!

Tony Dodds: Dessert wine and sherry – where have all the sweet tooths gone?!

Arva Ahmed: Cupcakeries that disguise subpar cupcakes with ambitious names and exotic flavours…with each monotonously iced cupcake costing you more than buying a trusty shawarma. Let this year be one where no extravagantly-named dry, red, velvet cupcake with slimy, vanilla frosting (as opposed to the cream cheese gospel) crosses our paths.

Sally – My Custard Pie: Reuseable and biodegradable bags have caught on finally.  A hope rather than a prediction for 2012 is that food providers will reduce their packaging.  Even the market traders use cling wrap onto polystyrene trays.  Retailers will no longer be able to sell tired, tasteless fruit and vegetables and charge a premium price due to the organic sticker on it (ditto unhealthy snacks and junk cereal).

Standard service, heavy food, buffets, cloying cupcakes, dessert wine and wasteful packaging - not hot in 2012

Contributors:

James Brennan is a food and travel writer, blogger, guzzler, renaissance man, muhammara addict, kebab king and currently eating his way round the Middle East on Never Mind the Boreks (see also The Dubai Guzzler).

Harriet Bardsley is Sales and Events Manager, Lafayette Gourmet within Galleries Lafayette, Dubai Mall, dedicated to gourmet foods with tasting bars, restaurants and deli counters plus home deliveries and outside catering.

Harry Santa-Olalla is Head of Marketing for Mahiki Dubai – the flamboyant, tropical cocktails and island grill.

Samantha Wood, food blogger, journalist and PR consultant – founder of restaurant review and foodie resource FooDiva  recently voted no 2 Best Blog in Dubai.

Sarah Walton – travel and food writer, wine expert and blogger as alter-ego The Hedonista.

Tony Dodds is Head of Group Agency Wine for MMI Dubai a liquor retailer with the largest wine portfolio in the Gulf.

Arva Ahmed shares her passion for street food and cheap eateries on her brilliant blog I Live In a Frying Pan – named as one of the UAE’s best food blogs by The National.

So have you got anything to add to this? Do you agree with these forecasts for the U.A.E. food and drink scene and what would you like to see more (or less) of? What’s the big thing in food and drink for 2012 where you live?