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My kind of shopping – organic, local farmers market in Dubai

November 21, 2014

Farmers Market Dubai - mycustardpie.comA week today I’ll be setting my alarm, checking my purse for change, jumping in the car with my jute bags, and driving down the deserted Sheikh Zayed Road. I know this route so well; I’ve followed it for countless Friday mornings only to take a break during the fallow summer season. I’ll turn right into Emirates Towers rear entrance and right into ballroom parking which will already be dotted with farmers’ vans. Ibrahim from The Farmhouse will wave as he crushes fresh pomegranates in an old-fashioned press for juice. The aroma of freshly baked bread mingled with the scent of herbs, spices from Down to Earth Organic and Ethiopian coffee beans will welcome me. A flat white will appear without asking from the Coffee Planet stall – they know my order.

The palm trees create dappled shade over the stalls and I’ll scan the tables, greeting each farmer as they proudly display the organic bounty from their fields. My brain is whirring as I visualise what I’ll cook throughout the coming week. At the start of the season they’ll be round squash in vivid yellow and stripy green – perfect for stuffing – green peppers, perfect shiny aubergines, crisp cucumbers, courgettes, sweetcorn wrapped in their husks, okra, radishes, kale, beetroot, green beans, chillies, pumpkin, coriander, mint, fenugreek and more. I try to share my purchases between the farmers and buy my free range eggs from a different one each week.

Shopping in season means that some things are missing but eagerly anticipated. Tomatoes when they ripen will be so much the sweeter for the wait. Bulging bags stacked in the car, I’ll return to sample something from the chef’s demo – the first week will be Chef Gabi Kurtz from Talise Nutrition who will transform produce from the market into healthy dishes. I may join the yoga or Thai Chi that’s starting up too, run by the Talise Wellness people.

A market breakfast from Baker and Spice is essential and I’ll sit at the recycled wooden benches with a runny egg dripping out of my chicken sausage roll – there is no way to eat this delicately.

Reading this back for editing, it sounds too glowing, too gushing. I just can’t help it. The market, where I buy direct from the people who grow my food, has transformed the way I shop and cook (and our household food bill reduces dramatically). The produce is so fresh that it easily lasts the week. Amazing raw Yemeni honey, beautiful olive oil from Astraea, and organic pantry items from Down to Earth means that I only have to shop elsewhere for meat, dairy and a bit of fruit.

I’m sitting here in blissful anticipation with a huge smile on my face. I was lucky enough to meet some of the farmers this week and take home a bag of produce. It’s a taste of things to come.

This is the sixth season of this wonderful market. I was there from the beginning for the first farmers’ market in Dubai and it’s a jewel in any terms that the city should be proud of. It’s sparked a whole movement so we have a range of choices now which back then seem impossible and unfeasible. There is only one farmers’ market though – and that’s where you’ll find me on Friday 28th November at 8am and every Friday until around the end of May.

Stuffed round squash (or courgettes) recipe

To stuff 13 squash I used 800g minced lamb, 340g short grain rice, a large bunch of fresh coriander leaves, a small bunch of fresh mint leaves, 3 cloves of garlic finely minced, 4 tablespoons of tomato puree and about 4 level tablespoons of Emirati B’zar spice mix (a type of local garam masala). The sauce used 4 cloves of whole garlic, 4 tablespoons tomato puree, 2 tins chopped tomatoes and water to come half-way up the sides of the squash. Season well. Cook the stuffed squash in the sauce for 45 minutes.  Full recipe for stuffed courgettes here.

The Farmers’ Market on the Terrace

Where: Jumeirah Emirates Towers, Ballroom parking (plentiful, adjacent and free)

When: 8am – 12 noon. New season starts 28th November 2014 and runs until end of May.

About: A market for cooks and food lovers. Ten organic farm stalls (manned by farmers); Baker & Spice;
The Farm house; Slow food Dubai (including a plant swap); Coffee Planet; Balqees Raw Yemeni Honey; Boon Coffee and Sweet Connection (the gluten-free kitchen). Healthy cooking demos by chefs. Yoga and Thai Chi. Keep in touch by Facebook, Twitter or Instagram.

Other organic, local market options in Dubai:

Saturday Souk 

Where: Central Courtyard, Souk Madinat Jumeirah (Parking free until 10am and then charged at AED 10 for the first hour and AED 5 for each subsequent hours)

When: Starting at 8am (from 6 December 2014)

About: Greenheart Organic Farms, The Farmhouse, Baker & Spice, Slow Food Dubai, Sweet Connection, Coffee Planet, Balqees Raw Yemeni Honey, Lootah Premuim Foods, Talise Spa, Fitness and Nutrition. Live cooking demos, fitness demos, mini yoga classes, skin care and juicing demos.

Blue Planet, Green People

Where: Jumeirah Lakes Towers (plus one in Al Ain)

When: 10am – 1pm every Friday (JLT Park) and Saturday (Cluster U)

About: A good option for fresh, local organic veg if you especially if you live in JLT. Buy direct from farmers.

Greenheart Pop Up Market

Where: Comptoir 101, Jumeirah Beach Road

When: 11am and 1pm every Saturday (from 22nd November 2014)

About: Organic, local produce from Greenheart’s farm managed by Elena Kinane plus organic Lebanese fruit.

Ripe Food and Craft Markets

Where: Zaabeel Park (plus others in Sharjah and Abu Dhabi)

When: 9am – 2pm every Friday

About: Organic imported and local veg sold (and imported fruit) by Ripe is part of a bigger market with many food and craft stalls.

Let me know if I’ve missed any…

Weekly veg photo

The other thing I’ll be returning to next week is unpacking my haul onto some sacking and photographing it before putting it all away (see examples above). It’s part of my ritual. I usually share on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter but I’m thinking of including it as a short, weekly post on My Custard Pie. What do you think? Would you like to see my purchases and a few thoughts about what I’m going to do with it? Would love your comments…

Disclosure: This has been bothering me so I thought I ought to mention that I now do some (paid) work for Baker and Spice who are the market organisers. However I was a patron of the market long before I knew them, I visit the market and pay for my produce like every other shopper, my blog is an independent space for my thoughts, unconnected with my professional work and in fact they will only know about this post when I publish it. No one but me dictates my editorial calendar and content.  All opinions most definitely my own.

Do Ahead Christmas by James Ramsden: cookbook review

November 20, 2014

Do-ahead Christmas cookbook review - mycustardpieEver recognised yourself in a book?

instead of being in the stereotypical panicked and mucky-aproned host when your friends arrive clutching bottles, you are in a state of complete control and composure.

It was the latter part of this promise (and frequently being the person described in the former) that motivated me to buy James Ramsden’s first book Do-ahead Dinners. James is an unassuming looking young man with a homely face who looks like he’d be comfortable wearing a Christmas jumper all year round. Homely is apposite as he regularly invites hordes of people into his own dwelling and cooks supper for them. This persuaded me that he might have some wisdom to impart when cooking for numbers. There’s no patented secret; it’s all about getting as much done ahead as possible. I road-tested a few dishes and the results were excellent (especially the chicken Plov and zaatar carrots) so was eager to get my hands on Do-ahead Christmas when I got wind of its release.

Getting as much done ahead for Christmas makes sense. There is a pressure of the ‘best-ever’ food that people look forward to year after year, and James acknowledges this. For me though, there is nothing so off-putting as the military lists of planning that may have you freezing the whole feast six weeks ahead and strangling the joy out of festive cooking. I do like to start early with little tasks such as fruit marination in booze for cake, pudding and mincemeat under my belt in October and November.

This book doesn’t hector. There is gentle advice among the pages and in the introduction James says he’s reticent to dictate. He does suggest five of menus for a range of occasions (including the big day itself); I would actually like more of these suggestions.

Layout and look

I adore the styling with old-fashioned block printed wrapping paper and traditional, unblingy decorations forming the frontispiece and chapter intros. It takes me straight back to my childhood when things were less sophisticated and very much about a homemade celebration. It’s beautifully produced and would make a great Christmas gift. The first chapter dives straight into drinks, which is exactly how it is at my Christmas gatherings, and while many of the ideas would suit cooler climates than where I live, tangerine whisky sour and apple, ginger and cranberry virgin cocktail recipes are already bookmarked.

Advice and content

Freezing is given as an option for many main courses but not all recipes freeze ahead. Each recipe is structured into stages. Do ahead (this can be days or hours and gives a minimum) which can be several tasks spread out with guidelines of when to do them and finishing off.  For instance the structure for preparing Gravlax on rye crispbread: up to one week ahead (min. 48 hours) make the gravlax; up to one week ahead (min. 4 hours) make the crispbread; up to a day ahead (min. 10 minutes) make the sour cream and horseradish dressing; to serve.  There is also advice about scaling up for a crowd overall in the introduction and on some individual recipes. A Christmas day time plan is included as you’d expect – it’s not the most exhaustive I’ve ever seen – and again James exhorts you to adapt it to your own menu.

Do-ahead Christmas cookbook review - mycustardpie

Recipes to make (or not)

Like all cookbooks, the appeal often rides on whether you share the same taste in food as the writer. James likes strong tastes and anchovies appear in four recipes. Dips and nuts all appear again with a different riff, but there is a more festive and luxurious slant to them. Coffee-roasted beetroot? Interesting…

The aforementioned gravlax on homemade crispbread is firmly on my Christmas planning list. Mini hassleback potatoes as a nibble for parties is a magnificent idea as are the cute little Christmas koftas (who can resist a meatball and these have creamy dip and festive red pomegranate seeds with green coriander leaves). Venison Wellington will be made if I can get my hands on some deer meat and the chocolate orange and hazelnut tart is currently vying for place with the Yule log recipe as the dried fruit haters alternative pudding. And thank you James – I was wondering whether you could actually roast sprouts!  Left overs make an appearance and there is a lovely chapter on edible gifts.

However, I can never, ever envisage that I would serve cauliflower soup as a starter for Christmas day (although KP’s request for egg and lemon soup might sound very odd to most people). I would never contemplate making a homemade Eccles cake at any time of the year, let alone eating it with cheese after a Christmas feast.

Quite a few of the recipes are not something I’d include on or around Christmas as they just don’t coincide with my own traditions – but this is quite refreshing. There are no chipolatas or bacon rolls. One thing I cannot forgive James for though. There isn’t a single mention of a parsnip. Seasonal sacrilege!

Staying on my shelf?

My current Christmas culinary inspiration is taken from among the pages of Nigella’s Christmas, the chapter from Annie Bell’s In My Kitchen, recipes from Tamasin Day Lewis’s All you can Eat and a pile of old BBC Good Food, Good Housekeeping and Delicious magazines. Do-ahead Christmas combines some really fresh ideas with a backbone of celebration and tradition and some very good practical advice (without being dull or patronising). James includes his email address and Twitter so you can ask him questions direct which shows an openess and lack of pretence that’s apparent in the whole tone and style of the book. This is a definite keeper.

Thanks to Pavilion who published this book and sent me a review copy. All views my own.

How do you cope with Christmas cooking and are there any ‘go-to’ recipes or books you turn to?

 

1000 Juices by Deborah Gray: cookbook review

November 11, 2014

1000 Juices cookbook review - mycustardpie.comPerhaps you think that I couldn’t possibly need another cookbook (I know KP does). Want? Yes. Need? Perhaps. However, within my groaning shelves there is one topic uncovered and that’s juices and smoothies. I’ve browsed various volumes but never been motivated enough to take one home.

Most juicing books are slender volumes but 1000 juices, green drinks and smoothies, in hardback, is the size of a normal cookbook (from Jamie for instance) and that’s the clue to what it contains. If I ever meet author Deborah Gray (or perhaps her editor) the first thing I’ll do is invite her round and bribe her to sort out my filing (with an option on my wardrobe, cupboards and life). Each chapter is based on a master recipe with variations. It’s a simple way of working but means that there are indeed 1000 ideas for assorted drinks.

What’s in the book?

Before you dive into the profusion of juicing ideas, the useful chapter on equipment, fruit and ingredients is well worth a read. It describes major fruit, vegetables and other additions such as natural sweeteners, dairy substitutes and flavourings. It gives the best way to prepare the fruit or veg and extract the juice, the calories contained and how much juice to expect per fruit plus the health benefits. It’s packed full of information, for instance did you know that the levulose sugar in pears is better tolerated by diabetics than most fruit sugars? A single carrot contains sufficient beta-carotene to supply a day’s worth of Vitamin A, promoting good eyesight and skin (read on to see why this is important).

Recipes and chapters

The chapters give more evidence that this is worth its shelf space: Breakfast Blends, Cleansing Drinks, Restorative Drinks, Super Energy Boosters, Thirst Quenchers, Milkshakes and Frozen Drinks, Perfect for Parties and Mocktails. It’s not all about abstemious self-denial and some recipes include frozen yoghurt, ice cream, coffee, sparkling water and even soda (boo) plus, in the party section, alcohol, but the main thrust of the book is on healthy drinks. Many are just ideas for fruit combinations especially in the juicing section.

When preparing a smoothie, I usually just make it up as I go along using what I have on hand. The ideas in this book too me way outside my usual repertoire. I’d never thought of blitzing lemon and garlic into a shot, or adding nuts to bananas, or using stewed fruit from the freezer. And lentils in a smoothie or rosewater with lychees? So much inspiration.

Green stuff

Green juices are my challenge. They are often too foamy or too thickly, greenly, off putting to be palatable. I would never have thought of putting broccoli with pear to balance the earthiness, or using fennel as a base (how good does fennel and lime sound?). The big green chiller is described ‘this wonderful concoction is a farmers’ market stall in a glass and contains cucumber, celery, courgettes, kale, spinach, coriander, lime and ginger. My local farmers’ market starts for the season on 28th November and I’ll be bringing armfuls of ingredients back with a few to gulping down some in a glass.

The downside

I asked veggie teen what she thought about the book and she was very impressed. However, she said ‘Mum, you must have a job reading this, the type is SO small.” And indeed she is right. The ingredients list in the lead recipe is 8 point at the most (if not 7 or even teeny weeny 6) and I peer at it even when wearing my glasses. The cost of cramming all this information into one book.

Staying on my shelf?

Absolutely. Font size aside, this is beautifully produced with lovely images and absolutely packed full of ideas which are organised within an inch of their lives. This is probably the only juices, smoothies and drinks book you’ll ever need it is so extensive.  This means more room for other cookbooks right?

The best tools for juicing and smoothie-ing?

Could you eat 4 apples in one go? I know I couldn’t, but drinking the juice of four is easy. This is good and bad. Eating whole fruit is healthier for you than juicing because you get the fibre. While sugar in fruits and vegetables is not a bad thing in normal quantities, it’s easy to ingest far greater quantities if juiced than in a smoothie or eaten raw.  Juices and smoothies are a great way to make sure you get your five (or seven a day) but like all things, best in moderation.

Therefore I do not own a juicer. I’ve tested them and owned one for a while, but the washing up is just too arduous. You can juice effectively in a power blender (I have a Vitamix). Cut the fruit up into small pieces, add some water (water is good for you too) and blend until smooth. You can drink it as it is or strain through muslin or a fine mesh sieve. The washing up is done in a trice and you get more fibre. I’ve never tried this with wheatgrass!

For small quantities of citrus fruit you can’t beat an old-fashioned lemon squeezer. The lime squeezer is quick, easy and lovely to look at. I wouldn’t save it in a flood but like owning it (thank to Sarah). For larger quantities of citrus, this Cuisinart press is the best I’ve found. Many are absolutely huge (you need it on the counter) with lots of working parts, not this one. The lid, strainer and press part simply lift off and you can wash in the top section of the dishwasher. The spout can be lifted up and down to stop the juice flow and means you can juice directly into a jug or glass. By putting the lid on and pressing down you can extract more juice and pulp.

Thanks to the Quarto group who published this book and sent me a review copy. All views my own.

Would you find room on your shelf for a book about juices, smoothies and drinks? What do you use for juicing (ingredients or equipment)?

Blue cheese, chilli and pear Dante chips for Joan Crawford

November 8, 2014

Dear Joan,

How I wish you could be present at tonight’s dinner party in your honour. The brainchild of the High Priestess of Silver Screen gourmet glamour herself, Jenny of Silver Screen Suppers, glittering gatherings are happening across the globe. Cocktail glasses will be raised, and platters covered with a menu of your making. The recipes tonight are all yours Joan and alas not a morsel will cross your lips. But would I really want you as a guest at my table Joan? You invented self-promotion on a scale that Lady Gaga could only dream of. I have a horror of that kind of ‘push’ and I’m sure you’d sense it and dislike me on the spot too – your heavy-lidded gaze turning frosty. And the ice on your heart too Joan. How could you strike your adopted children out of your will especially as you treated them so cruelly. Or did you? What is the real truth?

I’d like to give you the benefit of the doubt; that beneath the glamour and acting, you weren’t a totally cold creature. Because of food. People who love to cook, who love to eat, who love to share and feed others, can’t be all bad. These recipes are from a treasury of your culinary creations put together by Jenny and soon to be immortalized in a cookbook.

I’ve tinkered with your original Joan. Even such an icon as yourself could not tempt me to use potted ham. But I think you’d approve of the salty blue cheese melted over a sweet, limey, chilli paste with the refreshing sweet slice of fresh pear. It’s the perfect simple appetiser to go with an ice-cold martini that’s named after you made of gin, vermouth and strega with a grapefruit twist. Or there’s a Joan Crawford Cosmo too. Great for a dinner party or an intimate meal for two.

“I need sex for a clear complexion, but I’d rather do it for love.” – Joan Crawford

Blue cheese and pear Dante chips

  • Servings: 6-8
  • Difficulty: easy
  • Print

Ingredients

  • 1 pack of plain tortilla chips (wholemeal or blue corn would be good)
  • 3-4 tablespoons of Lime & Chilli Exotic fruit for cheese from The Fine Cheese Co or other fruit paste for cheese
  • 100g Roquefort or other medium blue cheese
  • 1-2 ripe pears

Method

  1. Preheat the oven to 200 C. Line a baking tray or two with baking parchment. Lay as many tortilla chips as you want to use over the tray. With the back of a teaspoon spread a thin coating of fruit paste over each chip.
  2. Crumble a small amount of blue cheese on each tortilla chip; a scant 1/2 – 3/4 teaspoon on each is sufficient as the cheese is so salty.
  3. Put the trays of tortilla chips on the top shelf of the oven for a few minutes until the cheese is melted. Cut the pears in quarters and remove the core, then slice and cut each slice in half. Place a sliver of pear on each tortilla chip. Serve.
  4. For a party, you could assemble the tortilla chips ahead of time and keep the pear slices in acidulated water (with lemon juice) to stop them from turning brown. While the Dante chips are in the oven, drain the pear and pat dry on kitchen paper.

Blue cheese and pear dante chips - My Custard Pie

I used beautiful, juicy, ripe pears from Turkey for this (seasonal in the region) – perfect for Simple and in Season by Ren Behan hosted by Katie of Feeding Boys and a Firefighter. Do visit for loads of seasonal inspiration.

If you’d still like to be a part of the Joan Crawford glamour email joan(at)silverscreensuppers.com for the recipes.  If you send photos or your party and Joan dish or a link to your post to Jenny by Monday November 17th you’ll be in the draw for a copy of her Joan Crawford book. Join in the virtual fun on Twitter @silverscreensup #joancrawfordcookbook. To quote Jenny, “Have a glorious time sprinkling star dust around your kitchens my lovelies!”

Bread by Dean Brettschneider: cookbook review

November 5, 2014

Bread cookbook review - My Custard PieImmersed in a peaceful contemplation of new titles in the cookery section of my favourite book store my gaze halted on an image of a simple crusty loaf on a dark wooden board. This is nothing new; it’s uncomplicated, even primitive, so maybe that’s why this ‘staff of life’ pictured beautifully has such an immediate pull. It cried out “take me home now”, but knew my copy was on its way…

Why on earth would I need another cookbook about bread when I already have at least seven on the subject plus the various chapters in numerous other volumes on my shelf? A fleeting thought that this was a tome too far,  until I got stuck into this new book Bread by New Zealand baker Dan Brettschneider.

The art of dough can be so elusive and changeable, scientific but infinitely organic as so many forces of nature, from microbes to temperature, can affect the final result. It’s a subject that rewards total immersion and a lifetime of perusal (study is far too austere a word). This book leads you in, shows you around and holds your hand and offers a wide variety of dough projects to get your hands stuck into.

So what makes this book different?

Before you even start getting the flour and yeast out of the cupboard, there is a chapter on The History of Bread Making. This precedes the most comprehensive section on Ingredients that I’ve ever seen in a bread cookery book. It reminded me of my biology books at school – but in a good way as it explains in detail the structure of a grain of wheat, milling techniques and extraction rates, other types of flours, and what effect this has on bread making. A wide variety of other things you might use in bread are covered with very practical advice. Did you know that a maximum of 10 per cent of cocoa to bread flour should be used, for instance, as it is acidic and contains starch (which tends to absorb moisture in a cake batter).

Equipment is discussed in similar depth and then we are onto bread proper or ‘Bread Know-how‘. Text and a multiple series of black and white images demonstrate exactly how each process of the dough should look and feel (and why). Testing the dough for correct proof with the ‘indentation test’ is super helpful and has three photographs to show under-proved, over-proved and correctly proved. Brilliant.

There’s a section of formulas and an extensive glossary at the back too.

Recipes

Onto the recipes and the bread itself. The chapters cover Savoury breads and sourdoughs, Grainy and healthy breads, Quick breads and scones, Festive breads, ‘Not quite bread’ (from lavash style crackers to Danish pastries) and Sweet bread. As well as the basic loaves, there are lots of ideas to tempt you: beetroot and thyme baguettes, a loaf with a whole Brie baked inside, a spinach, pumpkin, cumin and feta damper.

With Christmas coming up, I’ve bookmarked the Panettone (which uses a sponge dough ferment), Swedish Rye Crackers, Dresden Christmas Stollen and Italian Panforte recipes and there is a beautiful Celebration loaf which definitely deserves the title ‘show-stopper’.

The downsides

There’s not much to dislike about this book. Perhaps it’s because Dan is from a New Zealand background that the odd recipe doesn’t strike a chord with me (the Boston Bun, the Hundreds and Thousands Iced Bun). The tone errs on the side of a professional baker which may be slightly off-putting if you are a very novice baker – however the information is exemplary. I found the order of recipes was a bit strange – most books start with the simplest and get more complicated but these are dotted around.  The inclusion of a couple of recipes for left over bread (bread salad, French toast) is slightly random too – a whole chapter would have been more appropriate and useful.

Bookmarked recipes

So many to dive into, as well as trying the festive recipes, the Rye and caraway bread is calling my name, a Cranberry and orange twisted loaf that I’m itching to get my hands into …. and Apple and custard brioche tarts…. naturally.

Conclusion

An excellent addition to my bread baking book collection which brings another dimension of expertise and information as well as inspiration. It’s a good-looking book with a clean layout and gorgeous bread pics. While all my other books tell me how to do it right, this is the most comprehensive about what’s happening when it goes wrong. An encyclopedic resource for a beginner with enough to keep a more confident bread baker happy too.

Published by Jacqui Small Books www.jacquismallpub.com (@JacquiSmallPub) and available from Kinokunya Book World in Dubai and the usual book sellers elsewhere. Thanks to Jacqui Small for sending me this copy to review – all thoughts and opinions my own.

Bread cook books  - My Custard Pie

The other bread cook books in my collection

Do you make bread? If you don’t what’s stopping you? Do you have a favourite bread book?

What a visit to the creek reveals about Dubai

October 19, 2014

Leaping onto the narrow timber boat, our knees buckle as it wobbles in the tide from larger craft. The motor roars and we chug across the water, the rapidly rising morning sun blinding our eyes and robbing the Grand Mosque and Rulers Court of their detail. Sweeping over to the other bank within a few minutes, we pass close to the bulging hulls of trading dhows. These wooden vessels are painted every shade of cornflower blue and aqua, and in various states of peeling and wear. They look calm and picturesque from the water but a wander along the quay revels a hub of activity with cargo being loaded, sailors staring down from wooden parapets, and noisy gatherings of men on the pavement.

The 14 lane highway that slices through the centre of Dubai and streaks off to Abu Dhabi is now the heart of the city’s communications. Flanked by gleaming high-rise towers that all flash and blink a variety of coloured lights at night, fringed by the Metro, its stations resembling shiny woodlice or a series of mirrored Thunderbird 2s, it keeps Dubai moving with an estimated 140,000 plus daily journeys.

A few decades ago the Sheikh Zayed Road was a single track where the main danger was a camel wandering into your path at night. The place where journeys were made, cargo was delivered, the business of the city was done, was the Dubai Creek. It wasn’t much to look at as a waterway being impeded by sand banks. Pearl divers took their wooden boats out into the Persian Gulf and a few Barasti huts grouped either side of its mouth. It took Sheikh Rashid Bin Saeed Al Maktoum to have the vision, in the 1960s, to dredge the sand away so that boats could glide up into the creek and moor on its banks to unload their precious cargo, and the first chapter of the new Dubai was written.

When I arrived almost 15 years ago, I used to visit shops and tailors in the areas Bur Dubai and Deira on opposite sides of the Creek. As Dubai expanded and got busier there was no need and the grid locked roads made it really difficult to get to.  It was easy to forget this part of Dubai.  I’d wander down occasionally to the Majlis Gallery or the fish market but always with a purpose. Tourist companies targeted a few spots and crocodiles of visitors with their guides jostle you in the Spice Souk.

Visiting Dubai Creek - MyCustardPie.com

Arriving early, when the hawkers from the souk have barely risen, when the corridors are empty and the light is low, is like stepping into a theatre before the play has begun. You notice details that would be overshadowed in the hustle and bustle of the main performance. And with a guide like my good friend Arva, you get under the superficial skin of Dubai that so many people pelt with derisive words as though the show was found wanting.

There is far too much to relate from the two tours I’ve done recently but I learned how to spot sustainable fish at the market, the health-giving properties of scores of mysterious spices, ate the best fresh dates and munched on the most interesting lgeimat (tiny doughnuts) I’ve ever tasted. I quenched my thirst with the water of a freshly hulled coconut, strong Ethiopian coffee in a museum filled with its artifacts, and black tea shared cross-legged on the floor of a dhow with Iranian sailors. I lost count of the times I whizzed back and forth across the Creek on a water taxi or abra, with numerous interesting other passengers going about their every day lives, the slight breeze giving solace from the intensity of the sun. I also ate the best kababs known to man, but the secret for these lies with Arva…

These pictures give a tiny glimpse of what there is to discover on the banks of the Creek in Bur Dubai and Deira:

Visiting Dubai Creek - MyCustardPie.com

Dubai fish market - Visiting Dubai Creek - MyCustardPie.com

Visiting Dubai Creek - MyCustardPie.com

A view of the Creek from a trading dhow porthole

Top tips for exploring the Dubai Creek

If you want to visit this area here are a few tips to guide your journey:

  • Take the metro. Parking is extremely limited and the roads confusing and congested. Get off at Al Fahidi metro station and walk down the D90 street in the direction of the Creek. You’ll soon reach the Al Fahidi district and see the windtowers of the buildings.
  • Visit the Majlis Gallery. In the heart of old Bur Dubai, this family-owned gallery has been established for 25 years and has exhibitions of modern, fine art as well as furniture and gifts. Worth a look to see the inside of a traditional building and it’s a calm pleasant place to wander round with some seriously collectable artworks (my walls are full of them!).
  • Take a break at Creekside. This cafe is right on the water with a clean, modern interior, terrace with a view and a menu based on Emirati traditions. They’ll give you a map to the area too – as will the Majlis Gallery.
  • Get up early for the fish market. It’s a must-do Dubai experience and is about to be modernised so do this while you can. But don’t take your fish on the metro – this is not allowed!
  • Pop into Mawaheb for a coffee. This art studio for adults with special needs loves to have visitors and the art works are something special to take home.
  • Grab a coconut. The most refreshing drink you can ask for this fruit with its top hacked off and a straw inserted. Fresh orange juice is good too; hygiene inspectors in Dubai mean that hawker stalls can be trusted however ramshackle they appear.
  • Take an abra at the stations for a couple of dirhams. Visitors will be approached and offered a private journey. You may want to do this but a jaunt across the Creek with everyone else who is taking a water taxi is just as nice (I think).
  • Have breakfast at the Sheikh Mohamad Centre for Cultural Understanding.
  • Book a Frying Pan Food Adventure. Both my recent visits (and I’m a serial food tourist) have been led by Arva. I was a willing Guinea pig for the Food Lover’s Morning March and the new Creekside Photo Walk Series – both highly recommended.

Also to visit: the souks (spice souk, material souk, gold souk, and commercial souk), the new coffee museum, other art galleries such as XVA, the new Museum district in Deira, Heritage and Diving Village, the 10 dirham shops, abra crossings, Dubai Muncipality museum, scores of tiny restaurants and kiosks selling the most delicious and diverse food and the best view of the Creek from the top floor of the car park next to the spice souk.

Top tips on exploring the Dubai Creek - MyCustardPie.com

Have you visited the Creek in Dubai? What’s your favourite part about it? Is there a hidden gem where you live?

Four legs good, two legs bad

October 16, 2014
cow on Dartmoor - MyCustardPie.com

A beautiful cow roaming on Dartmoor – not confined to a shed for its whole life

Are you into equality? Do you believe in treating all people equally? How about animals? Are all animals equal in your world?

Every summer I visit the Cotswold Farm Park in Gloucestershire, UK. A parade of youngsters queue up eager to cradle a fluffy chick in their hands or chase after the runaway piglets. If the evidence of the purchasing habits in our supermarkets is correct, many of those happy families drive back through the countryside barely glancing at the huge sheds on quiet farmland crammed with serried rows of cages or pens where living creatures never see the light of day. They walk their dog, stroke their cat and then dig into their cheap chicken breast or pork chop without thinking twice about anything but the price…in monetary terms. Not the price of the life that the animal paid to be on their plate – it’s life in a cage.

Would the horse meat scandal have gained so much attention if the animal wasn’t graceful with a long mane and tail? People marched and protested for the end of chasing Mr Fox with his bushy tail. We bay for the blood of any shark which dares to harm man. All those inelegant beaked feathery creatures which can barely move in life but are so easy to cram down our children as cheap nuggets and make such a small dent in our food budget.  The inequality of how we treat animals based on how cute or useful they are to us.

End the cage age - find out more on compassion in world farming or mycustardpie.com

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Some facts

  • In Europe 700 million farm animals are confined in cages every year.
  • Not only hens (in ‘enriched cages’), but pigs (in sow stalls and farrowing crates), ducks and geese (for foie gras production), quail and even rabbits are all farmed in cages.
  • Rabbits are the most caged farm animal in Europe

What can you do?

On this Blog Action Day 2014, help end the inequality of how we treat animals. Think about how you shop for food. If you eat meat, or dairy products ask questions about the way it was raised and where it comes from. Join the ‘End the Cage Age’ campaign and support Compassion in World Farming.

What is Blog Action Day?

Founded in 2007, Blog Action Day brings together bloggers from different countries, interests and languages to blog about one important global topic on the same day. Past topics have included Water, Climate Change, Poverty, Food, Power of We and Human Rights, with over 25,000 blogs taking part since 2007.

Blog Action Day 2014 is on October 16 and will focus on the topic Inequality. #BAD2014 #Blogaction14, #Inequality, #Oct16

*Post title from Animal Farm by George Orwell. Where the animals take over a farm and adopt Seven Commandments of Animalism, the most important of which is, “All animals are equal.”

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