What am I talking about? The third Friday of September has been appointed by the Grenache Association to celebrate wines made with or predominantly with a grape variety called Grenache. Of all the annual varietal days (Cabernet, Chardonnay, Merlot) this is my favourite one to toast to. But why you may ask (or maybe you won’t but I’ll tell you anyway)?
1. Rhone wines are so beguiling…. and no I’m not jumping on the new fashion for all things Rhone (she protests weakly). As well as the famous appellations (more of that later), I’ve always found that if in doubt in a wine shop or on a menu, choosing a bottle of Côtes du Rhône will rarely let you down. It’s the combination of the juicy texture of the Grenache, the hedgerow herbs and berries of the Syrah (aka Shiraz in Oz) and tannic backbone of the Mouvedre (often known as GSM) which combine to make an honest, balanced, structured wine with depth of flavour that’s eminently drinkable. (I wrote imminently there by accident which is a Freudian slip if I ever heard one).
2. Grenache was pushed out in the cold for a while by the fashion for a handful of varieties exacerbated by EU and Australian vine-pull schemes and centralised buying (via supermarkets and big retailers). Vast swathes of Grenache vines were grubbed up and replanted (particularly in France, South Africa and Australia) disregarding climate and tradition. Those old vines that remain are now yielding fruit that is, in many cases, going into interesting, highly prized and highly priced wines. As it’s suited to growing in warmer climates it’s also very versatile to changes in conditions caused by climate change.
3. It’s not a showy grape and while, in some growing conditions, it can provide very forward tannins, it’s the soft, ripe voluptuousness and sometimes an alluring spiciness which it adds to a wine that appeals to me. Grenache is so versatile – no wonder it’s one of the most widely planted grape variety in the world, from Rioja to Priorat, Southern Rhone to Roussillon, Swartland to Barossa Valley. It makes great rosé too.
Grenache Day – what we tasted
A scout around the shelves of the local offy (Dubai is not dry but there are rules about buying alcohol) revealed that the big five are all very much in evidence (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc) meaning I had to search for my bottle of desired grape. Some 2011 The Custodian made by Chester Osborne, a bonkers winemaker of D’Arenberg in McLaren Vale was what I came away with. Have been meaning to write up the wine night in Dubai with Chester for ages but I think those particular brain cells might be permanently deceased.
Appetisers of tomatoes stuffed with cheese and pesto and blue-cheese stuffed mushrooms arrived on the table (thank you Drina), along with some delicious duck-filled samosa things from Sarah, wraps of sweet, juicy lamb from Moti Roti (via Sam) and figs with a cheese board (Keen’s Cheddar, Corra Linn, Auld Reekie and Dunsyre Blue), stocked up from Ian Mellis in Edinburgh by me. And then we got onto the wines:
The Custodian Grenache 2011 d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale
Really interested in this old vine Grenache as the grapes are grown biodynamically and the wine made with little intervention (such as food-treading and basket-pressing). The label says ‘minimal sulphites added’.
This was the only pure expression of the single Grenache grape we tasted so started with it first. The nose was slightly waxy, with pea pods, green peppercorns and fresh herbs with flavours of raspberries and liquorice and wild thyme. Sarah detected hints of kalamata olives. A luscious soft texture in the mouth, easy drinking on its own and would be fantastic with barbecued lamb or a comforting spicy cassoulet.
Domaine des Sénéchaux 2011, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Now under the ownership of Cazes family of Château Lynch-Bages, this was the most expensive wine of the evening that we tasted and from one of the most well-known and renowned appellations where Grenache predominates, Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Made up of 62% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 17% Mourvèdre and 1% shared between Vaccarèse and Cinsault and aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.
With aromas of raspberry, dark plums and horse’s bridle, you sink into the flavours of plums, blackberries and raspberry jam with smokey hints of charcoal and chocolate. This is a crowd pleaser and we all kept going back for another taste. Bookmark this to have with your Christmas roast turkey.
Les Hauts de Castelmaure 2011, Corbières
Corbières is a large and unglamorous AOC in the Languedoc-Rousillon region of France. This wine made by the local village cooperative, and made from Grenache, Syrah and Carignan grapes hand-picked from 760 local plots, with vines aged up to 80 years old around the tiny village of Embres-et-Castelmaure.
This was the great value surprise of the evening. A round, well-balanced deeply savoury wine with a perfumed nose of hibiscus, redcurrant and rosehips, and deep pluminess tempered by wild thyme. If you see it, buy some.
Salmos 2011, Torres, Priorat
The understudy to Temperanillo in Rioja for so long, Garnacha is having a fine wine revival in Spain especially old vines grown of the black schist slopes of Priorat. Made of Cariñena (Carignan), Garnacha Tinta (Grenache) and Syrah it undergoes malolactic fermentation in French oak casks. Finally, it is aged in new and second year French oak barrels for between 14 and 16 months, followed by ageing in the bottle.
I was excited to taste this and wanted to like this wine more. Although Torres is a giant producer, it’s capable of great things and I have a great respect for its environmental credentials. Perhaps it was the dominance of the Carignan (40%) so the softer, fleshier flavours and textures of the Grenache (30%) did not shine through as much. It was dramatically different in style to the other wines. Jagged, rich, herbal, tannic, bright, acidic, smokey are my tasting notes. I think this needs time and a slab of charred, pink lamb fresh from the barbecue. To be revisited.
All in all an interesting and delicious tour of some Grenache based wines of very varied styles demonstrating what a versatile and enjoyable grape it is.
Where to buy in Dubai
Domaine des Sénéchaux 2011, Châteauneuf-du-Pape – Dubai Duty-Free
Les Hauts de Castelmaure 2011, Corbières – MMI
Salmos 2011, Torres, Priorat – MMI
On my list to seek out: Yalumba Old Bush Vine Grenache – available at Cave, The Conrad Dubai and Zuma, Dubai via A+E
Did you open something for Grenache Day? Is this a new grape for you or an old favourite? Any wines quaffed you’d like to share?
Just a short word (for me) but I just had to share this. While walking over the rugged moors of Dartmoor and picking my way through the breezy countryside of Gloucestershire, catching up with family and friends and juggling work while in the UK, I missed loads of my favourite Radio 4 programmes on podcast. Driving back from dropping KP at Heathrow, I listened to a series of Food Programmes and couldn’t stop thinking about three people and the impact they’d had on other people’s lives through food. If you missed their stories, they need to be told:
Steve Glover – the Severn Project
“I really love growing salad, but I really love seeing people develop into fully fledged members of the community, because I had to do that myself, it’s not that far from my own story.”
Steve Glover set up a business that seeks to address, in a very practical way, the reason why ex-drug addicts, ex-offenders and those who have fallen out of mainstream society, often go back to their old ways in a circle of dependency. The Severn project is an urban, community farm growing a wide variety of salad leaves to supply to local restaurant businesses.
Steve, a former addict himself, obtained a degree in addiction counselling and worked in residential units. He became frustrated that people left with good intentions, goals and resolutions but once they returned to their original environment without any real support or provision they went back to drugs or offending. His motivation for setting up a horticultural business was not about creating employment but rather empowerment for people to support themselves – to encourage people to be dependent on their own initiative not subsidies.
His rationale behind choosing horticulture is that exercise and outdoor work stimulates systems that you have in your body which provide endorphins, serotonin and dopamine. These are the three neurotransmitters that are artificially stimulated by substances, so growing things replaces a chemical high with a natural one. They grow salad because it’s quick. Steve knew from experience that addicts want instant gratification, they don’t have the patience to wait through a long growing cycle and want to see instant results.
This is a sustainable business on many levels and receives no grants or funding. The product is in demand by local chefs; The Severn Project supplies fifteen varieties of seasonal organic, salad leaves which can be on restaurant plates in 24 hours or even less.
The impact, simplicity, integrity and sustainability of this community food business makes you wish there were many more people with such a vision as Steve Glover. Read about The Severn Project here…
Clare Millar – Eat for Victory
Eat for Victory is an idea and campaign by nutritionist Clare Millar to bring back some of the eating and lifestyle habits adopted during the Second World War in the UK. It may have been a time of perceived deprivation but actually we are much unhealthier now than we were then. She espouses slogans from the time of rationing such as Grow Your Own Food, Don’t Take More Than You Can Eat and Don’t Waste Good Food which are still useful today. When Clare started talking, she really got my attention with the way she articulated her mission and with these words in particular. She may be harking back to the past but she’s addressing issues that are bang on right now.
“There isn’t as much mindfulness in our eating”, says Clare. “Eat for Victory is all about inspiring people to shop, cook and eat more healthily and sustainably. I saw a need for simplicity. I think now that there’s a lot of information and not all of it is being fed to us from the right sources. Nowadays we get a lot of our education about food and diet from people like advertisers, food products and marketing and we used to get it from our parents.”
Clare’s simple messages are in tune with the Michael Pollen school of thinking i.e. Eat food, not too much, mostly plants but with a wider look at where we source our food and how by working as a community we can regain control of our food supply, live better and more healthily.
It’s not all ‘make do and mend’ doom and gloom as this recipe on Clare’s website demonstrates:
A British woman who has dedicated her life to Mexican cooking, Diana Kennedy’s life reads like an adventure novel. After leaving the UK to visit some interesting parts of the world, she first moved to Mexico in the 1950s to marry Paul Kennedy, the New York Times Mexico correspondent, and has spent the past 30 years tracking down traditional recipes from every corner and small outlying village of Mexico. At the age of 91 she lives for most of the year in an adobe house in Michoacan and still has the avid zeal of a collector to record and preserve a culinary heritage which has become almost unrecognisable since she first moved to the country. She was initially driven purely by curiosity and wanted to recreate the dishes she was served in people’s houses. She was often referred to cooks who in turn referred her to their villages.
After moving to New York in the 1960s, she was widowed within a year and started teaching Mexican cookery classes as a means to support herself. Her reputation grew and she published the first of nine cookery books, five of them written before she moved back to Mexico in 1976. A stickler for absolute authenticity and attention to detail in the preparation and ingredients of even the simplest meals she has inadvertently recorded an anthropological study of Mexico via cookery.
Recently she was described as the Mick Jagger of Mexican food. In one book, a dedication from her publisher reads “If her enthusiasm were not beautiful it would border on mania.”
The story of Mexico’s regional cuisines gathered by this English cook is now being seen as one of the most precious resources for Mexico’s food future, a country with some of the world’s biggest food-related problems on the planet.
She’s quite a force to be reckoned with, a formidable reputation precedes her, but you need a certain amount of guts to travel alone around on dusty roads across the one and half million square miles of extreme topography, in an old LandRover with just a sleeping bag. Her admirers in the British Isles include Darina Allen and Thomasina Miers and she’s received many accolades. Needless to say, her books are now on my cookery wish list.
“I wish I’d written better notes” she says wistfully when talking about the past, “when I think of what has been lost, when I think of my memories…” I didn’t realise at the time how valuable the recording of this might be for the future.” The period of time during the 1950s and 1960s in Mexico was then described as ‘The Miracle’ – although no-one calls it that now – when the country was industrialising at break-neck speed. To look at the countryside, the villages and the ingredients the way Diana did, was very unusual. She says it was the discovery of something that no one had written about that excited and drove her.
These three people restore my faith in the world and make me get out of bed in the morning with renewed purpose and vigour. There is hope for our societies and food system. The programmes about all these amazing people are available for the next year over on The Food Programme – do go and listen.
As I unpack my suitcases from my annual trip to the UK you’ll be expecting my kitchen counter to be laden with West Country cheeses. Sob, sob, alas and alack (you can see I’ve been home too long), this was always my intention but my bags would not expand enough to accommodate them – so I’m cheese-less. I nipped round to Jones the Grocer and bought a large wedge of Quickes cave-aged Cheddar. Not as interesting as my favourite unpasteurised Cheddars from Keens, Montgomery and Westcombe in Somerset but it helped sustain me as I commenced the grand unpacking and counting of spoils.
Oh my goodness, did I bring that many books? I sincerely hope that KP isn’t reading this. Some I bought, some I acquired, but all will earn a place on my shelves. “Are you still reading that book?” KP enquired with amazement on the afternoon I bought the Nathan Outlaw fish book and we sat in my Mum’s conservatory for a couple of hours.
There’s a tale to tell behind everything in my kitchen this September:
Gin was firmly on my ‘to do in UK’ list. The renaissance of small artisan distillers and an experimentation of flavours and distilling methods has really taken hold over the last few years. Even before I happened upon a Sunday afternoon gin tasting in Cheltenham (more about that to follow soon) I found this intriguing bottle in Nailsworth (top left, left); actually younger teen spotted it when I was doing a bit of impromptu wine tasting at Raffles Fine Wines. “You like gin Mum” she enthused and so this was the first thing to be earmarked for excess baggage. It’s from a very small producer called Psychopomp which makes a really limited number of bottles a year. The Sacred Spirits Company claims that all their gin is made by someone called Ian. A very juniper-heavy London dry gin which goes really well with tonic and a slice of lime (stocked by Le Clos – see below).
If the guy on the South Devon Chilli Farm counter had a secret video camera I think he would win all the prizes on ‘You’ve been framed”. Our entire family has a high tolerance to heat but right after I dipped a cracker into this chilli sauce at the Plymouth Flavour Fest I ran over to the neighbouring cider stall and begged him for a swig of his sweetest brew. For a full hour afterwards my tongue, throat and even the roof of my mouth was tingly-numb. Made from Bhut Jolokia and Habanero chillies this leaves the Scorchio, which I brought back last year, in the dust. Not actually sure why we bought some – to offer people as a dare?. The Jail Ale Mustard made by Hogs Bottom, near Lifton was bought from the lovely, new farm shop in Lydford (which sells great pasties). While I can get the Swiss Vegetable cubes at Organic Foods and Cafe, I bought this lovely big tub at Kilworthy Kapers in Tavistock; it’s the only powdered stock allowed in my kitchen.
Some serious bread intentions here – the scraper is considered essential by Richard Bertinet in his book ‘Crust‘ so I picked up a couple from Manna From Devon. I’ll be picking Celia’s brains about using the banneton. Fingers crossed for some gorgeous looking loaves. Ever since watching Linda Barker make ‘dog biscuits’ on an episode of Come Dine with Me I’ve been searching for this shape of cutter. I couldn’t resist one of the British Isles but goodness knows what I’ll do with it (especially if Scotland votes for Independence!)- both bought at Kitchener in Cheltenham. Good to see that food mags are back on track with real cooking instead of assembling ingredients. Both these issues are packed with ideas (sad to leave those hedgerows of blackberries behind).
Gifford’s Circus was as marvellous as ever. Veggie teen and I traveled to Oxford to see ‘The Thunders’ this year and, as usual, my face ached on leaving, mainly down to Tweedy the clown. The souvenir mug is by Emma Bridgewater and the spotty pottery jug from ‘Made in Stroud‘ to add to my collection (it’s in my genes – my Mum has a thing about jugs too).
Who brings home a box of old china rifled from their Mum’s garage? A food blogger who swore not to get any more props, that’s who. Also couldn’t resist this little wooden box of handwritten recipes dating from the 1940’s.
KP’s on a mission to grow tomatoes as good as my Mum’s so she gave him a packet of ‘foolproof’ seeds. She bought this set on grapefruit spoons in a sale in the 1960s and they are still in the box unused. Great excuse to do a brunch at home soon.
And all those books…. well I love Felicity Cloake’s ‘How to cook the perfect‘ series and her ‘Perfect Host’ has some really good ideas. And then I found the James Ramsden ‘Do Ahead Dinners’ in Waterstones and, dare I say it, might be even better. The Xanthe Clay book should be on everyone’s shelves (another thing I relieved my Mother of) and Nathan Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen was bought when fired up from doing the fish course (the Mitch Tonks book is also on my wish list). Viticulture (growing vines for wine) has to be some of the most intensive farming in the world. Some producers have turned organic, some biodynamic and some use such minimal intervention when wine making that the term ‘natural’ has been applied to them. It’s a vague term and fascinating subject which Isabelle Legeron (aka That Crazy French Woman) investigates succinctly and personally. Anyone interested in farming without chemicals should get this. I can’t remember why I bought the other wine book but it’s a good read!
These bubbles are taking on the French (no joke). KP and I had a glorious day out to the Camel Valley Vineyard (hope to write up soon). July was so warm and sunny in England that Pimms was in great demand. I finally found the Sipsmith version which I can’t wait to try. How nice to be welcomed at the airport with some bottles of nice wine. I ordered ahead from Le Clos (by email but you can visit the shop on your way out of Dubai airport) and was met just before passport control.
Another thing is missing…
The sound of elder teen’s voice in the house as she’s stayed in England prior to her move to Edinburgh for University. I’ll be joining her as a mobile cash dispenser to get her settled next weekend and I’m feeling decidedly odd about it all. The silver lining? Cheese in my next suitcase.
For the past few summers I’ve been taking a themed picture each day with Fat Mum Slim‘s #FMSphotoaday challenge. It seems to distill a special moment every day and I love looking back on them. If you’re interested you can find July here and August here (and all my FMS photo a day posts here). Let me know what you think.
What’s in your kitchen this month? Celia’s drinking Moscow Mules in hers (among other things). You can peep into a whole load of other kitchens from the links there too.
Anyone else find that you bring excess baggage back in more places than your suitcase? I’m in danger of developing a serious muffin top and it’s got to go. I’ve had a wonderful time back in my home country enjoying a really beautiful English summer buy number one on my list since I returned is ‘eat more salad’. Why am I sharing a flapjack recipe? The
problem with wonderful thing about flapjacks is that they are folded together with delicious, sticky, rich golden syrup.
Going away for a while makes me look at my house, life and routine with a fresh pair of eyes. I’m on a mission to do a radical clear out. This means ditching old clothes, deleting computer files, donating old books and whittling down the stuff on my kitchen shelves.
KP is the ruthless, organised one in our house. I inherited a strong hoarding gene from both my parents and find it hard to let go of things. We both agree on the topic of minimising food waste though and left-overs are a regular feature on the weekly menu. Some disappointing pears needed to be dealt with, a banana was turning to the dark side and a bulk purchase of oats was toppling out of the cupboard. I’d read about using banana as a binding agent for biscuits so I thought I’d try it out. Now I’m not claiming that these flapjacks are healthier than salad but they are held together with banana, nut butter and raw honey; there is no other added sugar apart from a wee, drizzle of ginger jar syrup (which is optional). They are moist, slightly less sticky and a lot less tooth-achingly sweet than your average flapjack.
Using raw honey is important – I don’t buy any other kind now. Most honey in the supermarket is flash pasteurised with heat which robs it of the most important nutrients. Bulk producers also treat their bees with antibiotics to make them live longer and feed them sugar solution so the bees will produce more. My first choice is Balqees from Yemen, which is collected by nomadic beekeepers from wild bees that collect pollen from remote areas not affected by industrial agriculture (which Yemen has little of). The taste is rich and toffee like – perfect for flapjacks. UAE local honey is also good (available from The Farmhouse) but it has a much stronger, less refined taste. Or use whatever local, raw honey you can get your hands on.
These flapjacks are very easy to make. Just the thing to have as a reward after the plank challenge or 7 minute workout (yes things are that bad)…. or with a nice cup of tea. The mug in the picture is designed by artist Elaine Pamphilon; her naive-style art follows in the style of Alfred Wallis, a painter from St Ives whose work hangs in the Tate there. Using the mug today reminded me of our last visit to St Ives and the glorious Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden. It’s such a tranquil place despite many visitors, a calm, soothing feeling comes over me just thinking about it. We went when the teens were at an age where they were totally disparaging about the modern sculptures. I do hope they grow to love them as much as I do. Otherwise I’ll just have to bribe them with tea and flapjacks.
Pear, ginger and raw honey flapjacks
- 50g unsalted butter plus extra for greasing
- 6 tablespoons of nut butter (I used cashew butter made in the Vitamix)
- 6 tablespoons of raw honey
- 1 ripe banana, mashed
- 2 ripe pears, grated
- 2 pieces of stem ginger, chopped (plus 2 teaspoons of ginger syrup – optional)
- 250g oats (rolled or jumbo)
- 60g sunflower seeds
- 25g sesame seeds
- Heat the oven to 180 C and put a baking tray into heat up. Grease a non-stick, 20 cm square baking tin.
- Put the butter and nut butter into a non-stick pan and heat gently to melt. Add the raw honey and stir to combine. Take off the heat.
- Add the other ingredients and fold together with a wooden spoon. Tip the mixture into the baking tin and level the surface.
- Place on the heated baking tray and bake for 5 minutes. Turn the heat down to 160 C and bake for a further 55-60 minutes until the flapjack turns golden brown and is cooked through.
- Leave to cool in the tin then turn out onto a board and cut into 16 pieces. Store in a tin at room temperature for 1 day or up to 4 in the fridge.
Variation: You can use any combination of seeds that you like.
If you live outside the UK, a flapjack might mean something completely different to you. These are ‘British flapjacks’ which was a staple in our lunch boxes when I was growing up. My Mum would say ‘this will stick to your ribs’ which describes the gooey-er kind made with syrup. You might like to try my recipe for date flapjacks, one that uses fresh blueberries on Tinned Tomatoes, chocolate drizzle flapjacks on Fab Food 4 All or these apple and cinnamon flapjacks on Botanical Baker. With pears just coming into season here in the wider Middle East I’ve entered this for Simple and in Season hosted by Elizabeth’s Kitchen Diary this month (for Ren Behan).
Have you been away this summer? Do you feel the urge to change things when you get back? What does ‘flapjack’ mean to you?
This gorgeous UK summer weather seemed to stretch on and on. I can’t help but think it inspired everyone to create even more delicious things to eat as there were a phenomenal number of entries to Simple and in Season in July from bloggers in Britain and around the world. I popped into see Ren (who I’m caretaking this event for) earlier in the month for a cuddle with baby Matthew who is adorable. Her Mum showed us typical Polish hospitality and insisted we stay to eat some of the huge feast she was making for lunch. Smacznego indeed.
This collection of wonderful recipes is well worth bookmarking or pinning as a guide to summer eating.
Don a floppy hat and eat these in the garden, whizz one up for a light lunch or treat your friends with a stunning summer starter.
- What do you do when you find a surprise turnip in your garden? Linzi of Lancashire Food added some delicious extras (including white wine) and made turnip soup.
- Katharine from Leeks and Lemoni has also been enjoying the fruits of her garden and this pea and mint soup is vivid green and fragrant.
- Kellie, a cancer health advisor, eats luscious, ripe tomatoes like candy (we do this in our house too). She adds interest and texture to her simple, intense tomato soup with wholemeal maftoul (a giant couscous) and fresh, garden herbs.
- How cool – in every sense of the word – is a watermelon gazpacho laced with fennel, cucumber, garlic and chilli? I miss my friend Francine of Life in the Food Lane so much since she moved to Houston (and her amazing food).
Do you yearn for exciting and enticing salads at this time of year? I know I do and here’s some inspiration:
- “I love using seasonal produce” says Dannii of Hungry, Healthy, Happy who dishes up a crunchy, herby bowl of carrot and coriander side salad.
- A good dressing makes all the difference – I want to dive into these tomatoes with Greek salad dressing from Laura of How to Cook Good Food.
- Francine paints the salad town red with strawberry, watermelon & beetroot salad.
Light dishes and summer recipes
- Have you ever cooked with nasturtiums? Me neither, but I’m totally intrigued by Urvashi’s enthusiasm for elevating the leaves to superfood status. Over on The Botantical Baker (how apt) they are a key ingredient in a little gnocchi from Uruguay and Brazil called Nhoque da Sorte. The full story is really interesting.
- Fish is a lovely light dish to eat during the warmer weather and Sarah from Maison Cupcake transforms basa fillets with bacon and spinach into a frugal meal that will satisfy the biggest appetites. She uses black salt too which I’d never heard of before.
- When it’s warm you don’t want to spend too long slaving over a hot stove. This is where Louisa from Eat your Veg comes up trumps with Quickie Broccoli Pasta using veg box produce.
- Ness from Jibber Jabber UK recommends you use her rocket pesto on pasta, baked salmon fillets and even on burgers. Any leftovers you can freeze in ice cube trays and pop out when required.
- Thrilled that Erum of Total Salads, who also lives in Dubai, submitted this delicious recipe for seasonal vegetable pakoras. I’m sure even vegetable haters would change their minds when they’ve been dipped in chickpea flour and made into fritters.
- Pesto makes another appearance in ‘My Little Italian Kitchen where Alida stirs a courgette pesto through garganelli pasta with almonds with juicy prawns and cherry tomatoes .
- Selma from Selma’s Table makes a different kind of fritter combining sweet potato, courgette and paneer in baked fritters. Great vegetarian option at a barbecue.
- Frittatas are a favourite in my kitchen and yours it seems. Sarah of Tales From a Kitchen Shed browned the top of her swiss chard, mushroom and potato frittata with a blow torch. Such a lovely picture in her flower-strewn garden.
- These Cheddar and spring onion courgette fritters are smaller and less eggy but equally tasty thanks to Laura of I’d Much Rather Bake Than…
- My Mum used to serve up hearty food on the warmest days and we wolfed it down, and that’s exactly what Jen’s “slightly veg-phobic man in his mid 30s” does with this turkey and chickpea curry (on Blue Kitchen Bakes).
- The other alternative to warm days is to head out for the barbecue – it can be a bit of afaff though. Not so when you put your
Barbie-tastic Dinner on a Stick. Such a great idea by Louisa of Eat your Veg.
- I finally found some rice paper wrappers before I left Dubai so these crab and avocado Vietnamese summer rolls on Franglais Kitchen are well and truly bookmarked. So pretty – thanks to Nazima and Pierre.
Strawberry fields forever
And if it’s summer in the UK there must be strawberries… lots of ripe juicy ones…
- I’ve never wanted to try an ice cream soda until seeing this Strawberry & Rose Ice Cream Soda by Vanesther of Bangers and Mash. How many other uses can you think of for strawberry and rose syrup?
- … how about raspberry, strawberry and rose millefuille? A summer show stopper also entered by Vanesther.
- Open my Nigella cook book at the old-fashioned chocolate cake recipe and you’ll see how much use it’s had by the smears and splats. Ros gives it a summery twist with a large helping of strawberries and honey-laced ganache with this chocolate and strawberry cake recipe.
- Grab a slice of Coconut and Strawberry Jam Loaf cake and read a childhood story about being let loose in a cake shop is by Solange on Pebble Soup.
- This beautiful pink strawberry mousse from Jasmine on Self Sufficient Cafe is made with only three ingredients and no cream.
- Shaheen of A Seasonal Veg Table tempted her niece to eat more fruit my making these magnificent strawberry cream cheese brownies.
- Giving Lucy my vote for the prettiest cake decoration with her strawberries and cream naked cake over on Supergolden bakes.
- This recipe by Lauren of Lovely for strawberry crisp had me searching for the difference between a crisp and a crumble (answer: they are very similar but both are good with custard).
Beautiful berries and more
July is the month for an abundance of other seasonal fruit too…
- Helen of Family-friends-food loves gooseberries and gin. I’d like to meet her as I think we’d get along well. I’ve bookmarked this vegan gin and gooseberry jelly recipe to make for my daughter.
- Fresh raspberries play a starring role in this giant cupcake that Caroline Makes.
- An honest nine year old prevented Emma from shoplifting an apricot by accident. She paid for it and then went back later to buy more apricots which she baked into this glorious apricot and bailoni tarte tatin over on A Bavarian Sojourn.
- Hidden veg are teamed with delicious ripe cherries to make these courgette & cherry cupcakes (gluten free) with cherry cream cheese frosting by Kate of The Gluten Free Alchemist.
- If you are able to tear yourself away from eating all your cherries raw, a claufoutis is the next best thing in my book. Linda of La Petite Paniere has a gorgeous Clafoutis aux Cerises recipe for you to try.
- Louisa whips up a gooseberry fool in minutes on Eat Your Veg. There was a delicious fool using pink gooseberries at a recent barbecue. Divine.
- Ripe red gooseberries also pop up in the middle of these pretty little red gooseberry cakes baked by Choclette on Chocolate Log Blog.
- My childhood summer hols were spent in our garden and we trawled it for anything edible; currant bushes yielded little jewels and have a soft spot in my heart. Delighted to see blackcurrant frozen yoghurt from Corina of Searching for Spice…
- … and this simple to make rhubarb and redcurrant cheesecake by Ros of The More Than Occasional Baker.
- Quince is season in the Southern Hemisphere. I’m bookmarking this caramelised quince and almond cake for when they appear in Dubai; this recipe baked by The Quirk and the Cool for a chilly Sydney winter, is totally up my street.
- Peach Streusel Kuchen Traybake also sounds very warm and comforting – another entry from Sarah of Tales From a Kitchen Shed…
- who also produced a refreshing frozen peach yoghurt and oatmeal recipe to cool off after a curry.
- This lemon, lavender and almond cake (which is also gluten-free) would also end a meal nicely or stand alone for afternoon tea. Thank again to Helen of Family-friends-food.
- Like the sound of fresh raspberries balanced on a Cointreau custard in a chocolate shell? Me too… and you can find how to make raspberry Cointreau tarts from Alexandra – The Lass in the apron.
- ‘Caroline Makes’ something really unique – a Watermelon Fake Cake. I was expecting some carved up coloured sponge cake from the title but she produces something much more surprising, healthy, refreshing and seasonal.
And for all those barbecues (if you are in the Northern Hemisphere in July) something to drink and something to spice up your grills.
- At the beginning of July you might still find just enough elderflower blossoms to make this aromatic Elderflower Mint Cordial submitted by Ema from De Tout Coeur Limousin. She also submitted Imam Bayildi and roasted apricots with lemon thyme recipes.
- Laura from How to Cook Good Food says that chilli sauce is like tomato sauce to her for versatility and appeal. Try her Chipotle Chilli Sauce recipe.
- Take a peep into Ginger and Bread’s garden and pick up a scrumptious recipe for Chancho en Piedra aka Chilean Tomato Salsa which you can slather on bread, crudites, burgers….
- And talking of slathering on bread, Tandy made this lovely homemade grapefruit curd which she transformed into grapefruit meringue tartlets over on Lavender and Lime.
If somehow I’ve missed you off the list email/tweet/message me immediately. It was quite a task compiling this delectable collection. If you want to enter the current round (August) it can be found over at Elizabeth’s Kitchen Diary here.
Thanks to Ren for entrusting her precious event to my hands for a month and massive thank you to every who sent their recipes.
You know me well enough by now – I struggle to be anything but honest. Try as I might to disguise, my true feelings are always writ large over my face. So at the risk of offending KP I must admit that I wasn’t that thrilled with the gift of a fish course. It took almost two years from receipt of voucher to arrival at the door of Manna from Devon, based in a house perched high above the Kingswear crossing to Dartmouth (Devon, UK). Taking a seat on the outside deck taking in the view of leafy branches and distant fields, with a cup of tea poured from a huge, bulbous white teapot, I discovered that there was a bread course taking place simultaneously. Further salt in the wound as I long to do a bread course.
Why was I so reluctant? Partly as KP wants to eat more fish, so this is one of those presents you give for yourself as well as the recipient (we’ve all done it). It just didn’t set my world on fire.
Standing round a large wooden table, Holly asked the seven of us to confess our fish-based skill hopes, wants and dreams and then we ‘met’ a variety of fish – all fresh from Brixham.
Very early on I had an ‘aha’ moment when Holly classified the seemingly endless oceans of fish (in my mind) into white and oily, flat and round, plus shellfish/seafood. Thinking in simple terms rather than getting in knots about the name of the fish (often very difficult to determine at our fish markets in Dubai) instantly opened a door of exploration.
We gutted and filleted mackerel, brilliantly marked, shiny and ram rod firm. We were given clues to the freshness of fish – if you can see a finger print in the flesh then reject them, for instance. Then was the turn of the triangular gurnard, tougher in skin and with a flotation sac that made us squeal with delight when Holly extracted and popped it. We picked meat out of lobster and learned how to deal with a cooked crab. We made homemade mayo and portioned monkfish tail. We inspected John Dory and cooked megrim sole a la meuniere in foamy butter so its skin became deliciously caramelised. We pan-fried mackerel and poached some in a homemade shell-fish stock with other fish to make a deeply savoury soup. We removed the scales of a beautiful black sea bass with a scaler, table knife and plastic bag). We didn’t all do every stage but there was enough hands on experience to give everyone a go and practice the main skills like filleting and skinning. Thrilled to be chosen to dissect squid for the first time, I chopped off its head, removed the guts (something I handled a lot throughout the day) and beak, scored the skin into diamonds, and portioned the tentacles. Due to the gentlest of simmering, the squid was meltingly silky within the soup. Fish should be cooked at very high temperatures or very low and slow.
We had several breaks to eat the fruits of our labour: monkfish lightly cooked among stewed peppers, pan-fried mackerel fillets, fish soup with mayonnaise (and the lobster and crab), oven baked plaice and John Dory, sea bream en papilotte and more accompanied tea, coffee or wine (as preferred).
This is not some sterile kitchen; a dog wandered in now and then (not in the food prep area); a baby robin appeared on the deck; a tiny blue tit chick pecked at seeds on the window feeder; the bathroom has seen better days; this is a cookery school run by people who love to cook. Holly, with quick wit and relaxed manner, passed on her frankly encyclopedic knowledge of fish and fish cookery in an unassuming way. Trained at Leith’s she admitted that growing up in Worcestershire, making a great fish finger sandwich formed the basis of her fish eating experience until she moved to Dartmouth a decade and a half ago. She was quick to acknowledge the role of local fish seller and his generosity of sharing information and passion for his product.
As delicious scents of bread baking wafted up from the basement and the other course members took their places at the table with a wooden tray of local cheese I didn’t feel at all envious. In fact I felt slightly superior in my new position as a fish gutter, scaler, skinner and squid decapitater. But above all, I left Manna from Devon with a new-found confidence to tackle any fish thrown at me. Actually please don’t throw fish … but show me the way to the fish market now.
A few moments of the day on (very bad) video, including making sole meuniere – you get the gist.
Do visit Manna from Devon and not just for fish cookery either.
Holly gave us a lot of background about how fish is caught, sold and exported in the UK (masses goes to Spain). They obtain their fish, via fishmonger Mark Lobb, from Brixham, one of the most important fishing ports in Europe and the UK’s largest fish market (now bigger than Billingsgate in London). Take a look at nearby Newlyn fish market and a Cornish seafood safari with Helen.
Jude shows you how to cook live lobster here.
I hope to bring you lots of new ideas for cooking with fish once I’m back in Dubai but in the meantime try Kavey’s recipe using firm white (sustainable) fish, chorizo and potatoes; Thai fish cakes and baked mackerel with red onion and rosemary on MCP.
Do you eat fish? How confident are you about cooking it, what do you like to do with it and what do you find most challenging?
I could have told you about how good it felt to walk through the lush, green fields of Gloucestershire, wild flowers swaying in the breeze, a spring in my step, the deep blue sky making my heart sing. Or how, once again Gifford’s Circus made my face ache with smiling. Or laughter in a country pub where a small dog’s life was nearly imperiled by a game of Jenga. Or being almost moved to tears by the cool beauty of a collection of statues at a famous country house in Derbyshire. So many good things to share from my two weeks in the UK this summer…and more to come…
But right now, all is well with the world because of dinner at my sister’s kitchen table. I could have angled the dish, got the light right, propped and garnished, made better pics and let it go cold. But instead, I picked up my fork and tucked into the smokey, sweet, savoury, food blanket of comfort. This is a ‘sort of’ recipe, more a recommendation of a simple trio of flavours that work perfectly (quartet if you add the cheese).
We opened a bottle of 2013 La Mascaronne Quat’ Saisons Côtes de Provence rosé (from Raffles in Nailsworth) – light, dry, balanced, soft, perfect summer drinking. As well as the taste, the coral colour went beautifully with the butternut orange.
Our Polish heritage makes us very tolerant of garlic. My sister added both fresh and smoked cloves. The smoked ones are already part cooked and a bit sweet. You can substitute a whole head of ordinary garlic instead of the smoked. Just cut the top off the ends of the cloves, slick with olive oil and roast along with the squash. Squeeze out the garlic when you come to serve. The smoked does add a really beautiful depth of flavour though so I hope you try it.
Fettuce with butternut squash, sage and smoked garlic
- 1 small butternut squash
- 2-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 4-5 cloves garlic (optional)
- 4-5 cloves smoked garlic
- sea salt (smoked if possible)
- freshly ground black pepper
- a generous handful of fresh sage
- 250g fettuce (or dried pasta of choice)
- Pecorino (or similar Italian hard cheese)
- Preheat the oven to 180 C. Peel the butternut squash, halve it and scoop out the seeds. Cut the squash into small, even chunks.
- Toss the squash in the olive oil and spread over the base of a roasting tin. Add the unpeeled whole cloves of fresh garlic if using.
- Put in the oven, turning the squash cubes gently once or twice during the cooking time. After 20 minutes, roughly chop the smoked garlic and add to the squash with some salt and pepper.
- After about 30 minutes, stir the sage leaves into the squash and return to the oven. Keep an eye on the sage as you don’t want it to burn, put some foil over the tray if you think this is happening. Cook for another 15 minutes (until the squash yields easily to the point of a knife or skewer).
- Boil a large pot of water, add some salt. 10 minutes before the squash is done (or time as per the pasta packet instructions) add your pasta and cook until al dente.
- Drain the pasta, stir in the squash mixture and serve with Pec0rino and black pepper.
Variation: For added crunch, toast the squash seeds for about 10 minutes and sprinkle on at the end.
Do you have special memories of a meal that your family shared?