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French oysters; a quick guide to choosing, shucking and eating

January 11, 2013

OystersOysters can be scary. Their appearance for a start; like a fossil on the outside and something prehistoric on the inside. That’s supposing you can get into them without slicing your finger off in the process. You have to loosen them from the shell and tip the lot into your mouth, without showering yourself, and then eat something that’s still alive. And then there’s the risk or food poisoning isn’t there? And shouldn’t you eat them at certain times of the year?

So why do we bother? The French poet Leon-Paul Fargue said eating one was ‘like kissing the sea on the lips’ and I agree. It was in Hyde Park at a small food fair that I had my first opportunity to try one. Freshly shucked oysters lay on crushed ice, on sale for 50p each. I bought one, dressed it with a little lemon juice and then turned my back on the stall holder so he wouldn’t guess that I didn’t know what to do next and that I was slightly terrified. Edging away in readiness for a quick getaway if I had the urge to spit it out, I took the plunge. Some taste memories stay with you for decades and this was one of them. The salty, sour liquid cooled and enlivened my tongue at the same time. The silky meatiness of the mollusc as it slid down my throat was pure pleasure. I’d started a love affair for life, although in the speed-dating world of oyster-eating you sometimes get to kiss a few frogs when searching for your prince.

Oysters at Rostang

Strangely, I’ve eaten more oysters here in Dubai than at any other time in my life; flown in, wrested from their beds, they feature in the more luxurious buffets and many menus. The French claim to have the best oysters in the world. They’ve had a passion for them since Roman times; so passionate in fact that over-harvesting decimated stocks of their native breeds and most varieties produced there now were sourced originally from Japan. But where better to expand my rather sketchy knowledge of oysters than Rostang,* which bears the name of a famous two-Michelin-starred, French chef, under the guidance of the heavily accented Breton called Cyril.

Stepping across the threshold of Rostang is like leaving Dubai for Paris; a shine of dark wood, glow of art deco lamps, dusky chalk boards and the glimmer of patinaed mirrors. We sat at the bar while Chef Cyril guided us through the four varieties of French oysters that are flown in twice a week from Cancale in Brittany. * Please note that since Rostang is now called La Brasserie and no longer serves oysters.

Oyster history

The French coast has always been a prime spot for oyster beds and the French cottoned on first to cultivating oysters in large numbers. Once home to the European (or native) oyster (Ostrea edulis), over-harvesting and then devastating oyster diseases reduced its numbers meaning that the French looked elsewhere for faster-growing and hardier varieties. These were initially from Portugal but then Pacific (or Rock) oysters (Crassostrea gigas) from Japan thrived and now dominate the market.

One in 100,000 oysters of these edible varieties contains a pearl.

Oyster tasting at Rostang

Oyster varieties we tasted

Fine de Claire – These were the smallest and the saltiest (probably as they are fattened in salt marshes). They are very commonly served oysters from France with a good juicy texture and balance of slightly nutty, meaty flesh. If oysters can be compared to wine, I thought that these were the least complex in flavour and without much length.

Tsarskaya – A Pacific oyster variety developed for and grown solely in Cancale, named in honour of the prodigious appetite that the Tsars had for French oysters. This was my ideal oyster, with just a small squeeze of lemon, it had a clean taste that I absolutely adored. An iodine hit, the right amount of saltiness and a fresh pure acidity which meant I kept going back for more, (where the others were too rich to have more than a couple). It tasted like the very essence of the sea – ‘oh, those Russians’ (name that tune!)

Müirgan – In Gaelic means ‘born from the sea’ and originates in Ireland. Quite a delicate taste but sweeter than the first two, fleshier and larger in size. My neighbour from The Journal was in raptures about them.

Belon – The only European (native) oysters that were served. These were much flatter in shape they were the sweetest and meatiest (and the rarest and probably the costliest). Nice but my heart had been stolen already.

Also discussed was a native oyster called Pied de Cheval (horse’s hoof) which can weigh up to 3kg and live up to 20 years old. These are prized in France but I’m not sure I fancy them much. Sounds like far too much of a good thing.

Oysters and champagne Rostang

Oysters and wine matching

The classic wine pairing for oysters is Muscadet and Manager Slyvan from Nantes looked with regret at the Petit Chablis being served, although Chablis is an excellent match. A young, unoaked, crisp white with good acidity is the ideal partner meaning you can enjoy the oysters without the need for other accompaniments (shallots, vinegar, lemon etc.). Non-vintage Perrier-Jouët Gran Brut Champagne was my choice; dry with citrus notes and a delicate mousse, which was versatile enough to match all the oyster styles and flavours.  As this was during the early days of January, I abstemiously avoided icy cold vodka which was also offered and could have been perfect with the Tsarskaya oysters.

Sizes, storing and serving

Fresh oysters have a nine day shelf life from harvest if kept refrigerated, but for eating the fresher the better. Cyril advised that they should be served on ice to keep them fresh but not cold. Never put them in ice or they will freeze (and die). When just opened, if you touch the oyster with the tip of a knife it will move; this means it’s alive (and edible). As for eating only when there was an ‘r’ in the month, they are not as dangerous as they were during summer in France and England before refrigeration was available, but the warmer weather does have a slightly detrimental effect on the taste. Do make sure you eat them from a reputable supplier or restaurant though.

Pacific oysters and native oysters have different measurement systems in France. Pacific oysters are graded from 5 to 0 (the latter the largest, weighing over 150g) and native from small (petit) to very large (très grande – over 100g).

Muirgen oyster - this is a size 1

Muirgen oyster – this is a size 1

Shucking or opening oysters

Every year Rostang holds an oyster opening competition among their guests, where the one who opens the fastest wins special prizes. Use a short bladed oyster knife and follow the instructions from Chef Cyril below:

Eating oysters in Dubai

It is reputed that Henri IV, Louis XIV, Marie Antoinette and Napoléon all insisted on oysters only from Cancale, refusing any other type. The raw bar  at Rostang has featured produce from Parcs Saint Kerber, oyster producers from Cancale in Northwest France throughout January but this ended today. However oysters are usually on the menu at Rostang and there are plans to have a year-round oyster and Champagne bar, launching soon.

My recommendations for other good places to eat oysters in Dubai (and the UAE) include Rivington Grill (theirs are Scottish) and The Beach Bar and Grill at the One & Only. Independent restaurant reviewer Foodiva gave me her recommendations too:

Fire & Ice at Raffles – I had some size 4s there recently, or maybe they were 5s?!…
Tomo at Raffles has deep fried, tempura style ones on their menu
Vu’s at Jumeirah Emirates Towers
Pier Chic at Al Qasr
Wheeler’s by Marco Pierre White at DIFC
Scott’s at Jumeirah Etihad Towers in Abu Dhabi

The last word must go to Ernest Hemingway from his novel ‘A Moveable Feast

“As I ate the oysters with their strong taste of the sea and their faint metallic taste that the cold white wine washed away, leaving only the sea taste and the succulent texture, and as I drank their cold liquid from each shell and washed it down with the crisp taste of the wine, I lost the empty feeling and began to be happy and to make plans.”

So if you were scared of oysters before, have I convinced you to be braver now? Are you ready for the full-on French kiss or just a peck on the cheek? Have you always been seduced by their silky, saline charm? Do you remember your first oyster? And what and where were the best oysters you’ve even eaten?

Oysters from France

Culinary bucket list 2013

January 6, 2013

Are you a list person? I am. It helps me feel in control of things and a great sense of satisfaction when I’ve ticked items off. I use a lovely online device called Workflowy. Shamelessly stealing this idea from Charmian Christie, I’m making a list of culinary stuff that I’d like to do this year. Inspired by Amanda of Glamorous Glutton and Tracy of Shutterbean I’m going to keep a beautiful notebook too; here’s how (will appeal to the neat freak).

Notebook

Places I’d like to visit:

  • There’s a fish restaurant in Sharjah where they only serve the best of the catch of the day, grilled on charcoal. I think it’s called Sanobar.
  • I’m hankering after another food tour of old Dubai from Frying Pan Adventures. Ready for another taste bud awakening.
  • And on that note, I need to visit the momo place in Bur Dubai so I can compare to the ones I ate in Kathmandu.
  • Georgia – the one where Tbilisi is the capital (rather than the Atlanta one). See why here and here.

Lemon curd

Things to learn/blog more about:

  • Finding out exactly what my Vitamix can do.
  • Custard. Yes, the quest for custard perfection continues.
  • Emirati cuisine. I’ve got a great book to help me do it and a lovely friend who I hope will give me advice when I need it.
  • My most visited post of 2012 was one I wrote in 2011 A jar of sunshine – home-made lemon curd which includes 10 uses for the yellow stuff. I’m planning more of this kind of thing.
  • Bread. My baking journey of the last few years continues. I hope you’ll join me.
  • Sour dough – long-term readers may notice that this resolution is not a new one.
  • Perfecting pastry is another long-term goal. This is a great place to start.
  • Sri-Lankan food. I had a great lesson in 2012 (to be written about) and it would make KP so happy.
  • Wine.  Any excuse to taste different wines to stop my WSET knowledge from fading.  It’s a challenging but inexhaustible topic to write about.
  • My new iphone – for learning about, not blogging about, that is. Already loving Snapseed app for images. Thanks to David Griffen’s tips. Plus do you want to know some secrets?

Pomegranates

Ingredients to use more often:

  • Sumac – this lemony, bright red spice shouldn’t just be reserved for fattoush
  • Fish – my teens won’t eat it so I cook it less often than I’d like. Learning about the different fish available here in the UAE is an ongoing voyage of discovery.
  • Bzar – Emirati spice mix (the garam masala of the Gulf)
  • Pomegranate molasses – the new ‘in’ ingredient that people are scouring London for since publication of the latest Ottolenghi book (see below). In every supermarket here and infinitely versatile. I might even try making my own.
  • Vegetables – ok, I know…but with food bills going up all the time, and meat increasingly expensive it makes sense to focus on the leafy stuff. Plus with a teen who has been vegetarian since the age of 7 it means I only have to cook once.

Recipes to try:

Salt Sugar Smoke

Cookbook and culinary reading list:

Books on my shelf that I’m going to explore in more detail in 2013:

  • JerusalemYotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi; The first two Ottolenghi books are some of the most well-used books on my shelf but I haven’t explored this one properly yet (except the hummus recipe which, combined with my Vitamix, is the best ever).
  • Sherbert and Spice – Mary Isin; I’ve been sent this Complete Story of Turkish Sweets and Desserts to review. It’s going to take some concentrated reading.
  • Sugar Salt Smoke – Diana Henry; I’ve pots, jars and bottles all over my kitchen due to this book. Much more to explore in 2013.
  • Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking: Traditional and Modern Recipes to Savor and Share – Paula Wolfert; 2013 is the year I brave Satwa and find some clay pots
  • Short and SweetDan Lepard; my ‘go to’ baking tome with get more use this year. The bread recipes alone are sublime.

Blogs to visit:

  • The blogs listed to the right in the side bar are just some that I visit regularly and there are so many talented bloggers out there. I’m going to make sure I visit the ones that make me smile (or laugh out loud) a bit more in 2013:
  • Dinner in 1972 – a new discovery recommended by….
  • …Jen of Silver Screen Suppers who cooks from old film star’s recipes. Vincent Price’s goulash anyone?
  • Shabby chic – based in the Cotswolds (where I’m from)…sigh
  • Glamorous Glutton – written by Amanda of the oh so stylish notebook fame (see above)

sunflowers

And some personal ones:

Would love to know what you’ll be cooking up this year….

Goodbye, hello

January 5, 2013

Dawn in Fujairah

January I woke up on 1st January 2012 on a beach and swam in the sea. I hate cold water but it was just perfect – blood temperature and the sea looked serene.  There were jellyfish apparently, but I didn’t get stung.

The new year brought new adventures in cooking…I made bread with the tangzhong method and cooked salmon in a sink. Goulash soup soothed battered feelings.

February My sister brought joy to keep me strong while other family members were still in pain. We scampered through the lanes of Bur Dubai our senses awakened by extraordinary foods; and sipped Champagne in unparalleled luxury. I was courted with coffee. I fell asleep in the taxi after a ridiculously, blingy night out.

March Brought exquisite morsels, the veil lifting on Iranian food (and its hot and cold foods) and whole weekend dedicated to food. I met someone who actually drives an electric car here in Dubai in line with his organic principles. I finally mastered croissants.

April I made a really good friend…actually several. Lemon mousse fitted the mood.

May I learned to make coffee…really well. Pencils were sharpened, paints unearthed for a fresh look (at life) on my pie.  Middle Eastern treasure was unearthed in Yemen via Dubai. I ate momos in Kathmandu.

June Jubilee fever stretched across the continents. I joined in mourning for Syria…how unbearably sad that this has not ended. My teeth and tongue were stained purple.

July I listened to Debussy. Rain chased me from England to the banks of Lake Geneva.

Lake Geneva

August I walked and walked and walked. I discovered the best of British food through country houses and Cotswold pubs.

September  A weekend in London brought many new friends and old with jam on it. I ate tripe for the first time.

October Veg boxes were back in my life and not one but two amazing Italians. Plus some lovely friends.

November I ate one of the best meals of the year and a lot of pies.

December Floated by on Champagne with good friends and family.

I saw in the New Year sitting round a camp fire once again.

Thank you for all your visits, likes and comments over 2012; life’s is busy so I really appreciate you taking the time to read My Custard Pie. Wishing you a Happy New Year.

What were the highlights of 2012 for you?

What’s your desert island dish?

January 1, 2013

Desert Island dish on www.mycustardpieDesert Island Discs.  If that phrase does not immediately conjure up whimsical music backed by the sound of breaking waves and seagulls, let me explain…  The eponymous series on BBC Radio 4 has been running for 70 years in 2012.  Guests are interviewed and asked to choose the eight ‘discs’ that they would take with them if stranded on a desert island.

The selection of music and sounds that mean most to the guests is revealing and seems to act as a launch pad for many probing questions and exposés of character.  A recent episode with the sprinter Michael Johnson showed a strength of character and focus of almost super-human proportions; I was close to tears listening to Emma Thompson recount the emotional struggle of getting through her divorce, describing her Father in such tender words and playing a piece that had been composed specially for their house in Scotland.  The programme does not just focus on traditional ‘celebrities’ either.  From scientists, to charity activists, playwrights, entrepreneurs to politicians – there is rarely a disappointing interview.

The atrocious circumstances of the flight from Nazi Germany gave a clue to the dark nature of Jan Pienowski‘s illustrations, while Dawn French went from tears (reminiscing about her Mother’s death) to laughter (her choice of Patrick MacNee and Honor Blackman’s Kinky Boots).  Names associated with food and drink range from Nico Landenis, to Clement Freud, Fay Maschler and Anna del Conte. The latter spoke of serving up horse meat to unsuspecting house guests during the war.  In line with her belief that her countrymen eschew novelty, ‘Italians want the same food made only better and better’, her desert island dish would be pasta with a good tomato sauce. Clarissa Dickson-Wright had no doubt that she would eat well on her island as she would hunt wild pig for making into wontons and forage for wild raspberries.

Over the last year and a bit I have asked some interesting people in the food world, including food bloggers, writers, authors and chefs, the following: “If you were stranded on a desert island and could only have one three course meal (plus a bottle of something if desired), what would it be? ”  It would be a sort of last meal on earth before a diet of coconuts and fish for ever more (or until you were rescued).

Desert Island Dishes on www.mycustardpie.com

In no particular order, here are the replies:

Caroline Mili Artiss – successful video food blogger and TV chef (she also says she’s a custard fanatic too).

For my starters it would have to be scallops.. any which way really.  I just LOVE scallops, I could eat ten in one go.  Pan seared and wrapped in prosciutto.

Main course – A Chinese meal that I couldn’t bear to live without.  It consists of three different types of meat (this is possibly the reason I chose it) and it is something that you can order from any good Chinese restaurant,  the ones with the rows of duck and other meats hanging in the windows.  This dish is almost like a staple Chinese meal and one that I have grown up on.  It’s simplicity is what I love most about it as it let’s the flavors speak for themselves.  It’s a plate with a big heap of plain steamed rice, topped with a few slices of roast duck, Char sui pork which is slowly cooked with a sweet marinade normally using five spice and honey, and siu youk pork.  Siu Youk uses the belly of pork and it’s roasted until it is very crispy on the top with plenty of salt.  There is also some plain steamed green vegetables like kai lan, a crunchy chinese broccoli and all this is topped with a drizzle of sweet soy sauce.

Dessert has to be a lemon meringue pie.  To die for.  Must be my ultimate favorite sweet treat.  The tangy lemons with sweet meringues and crumbly pastry crust, who could resist?

I think from my selection you can tell I’m East meets West not only in the kitchen but in my DNA too.

Vanessa Kimbell – who runs a cookery school in Northampton, author of the cook book Prepped who describes herself as a food loving, sour dough adoring, baking mad foodie.

Starters Chinese Duck Canapes, Pork balls with caraway and Cardamon and basil ice-cream for pudding

Desert Island Dishes on www.mycustardpie.com

Chinese Duck Canapes, Pork balls with caraway and Cardamon and basil ice-cream – image by Vanessa Kimbell

Jeanne Horak-Druiff – award-winning  food, wine & travel blogger of Cook Sister

A starter of either seared foie gras and apple chutney; or MOUNDS of Jamon Iberico de Bellota; a main of a giant Caesar salad topped with the best quality salmon fillet available, very lightly seared; and for dessert, cherries Jubilee.  To wash it all down?  A bottle of pink Champagne like Graham Beck Brut Rose

Antonio Carluccio – Italian cookery writer and chef

Deeba Rajpal  – Passionate About Baking food blogger is an understatement; she also write an online baking blog for the Times of India, one of India’s largest newspapers

My choice of desert island dishes would be:

Indian Chicken Mince Kebabs & Ricotta & Cream Cheese Chili Poppers

Chicken & Roasted Bell Pepper Juliennes {pot pies}, Sauteed French Beans, Potato-Mushroom Crouquttes  … served with a cold pasta salad

Stone Fruit Crumbles with unsweetened low fat cream …. plus a bottle of Chardonnay { or maybe chilled beer}

Stone fruit crumbles from Passionate about Baking

Stone fruit crumbles from Passionate about Baking

Helen Graves – of Food Stories who blogs mainly about food and drink in Peckham, London (and a lot of pork recipes), sent me an email full of laughter, literally….

I think for my starter I would have an absolutely MASSIVE plate of Jamon Iberico, the best money can buy and a glass of Manzanilla. No a bottle actually. Then I think I might have pulled pork with Boston baked beans as that’s my favourite meal in recent memory. I am tempted to say a MASSIVE bowl of pasta though because I do love it. I would have anchovy, chilli, brocolli and garlic pasta with plenty of white wine and parsley. Breadcrumbs for the top please, fried in the oil from the anchovy jar.

For dessert…it would have to be ice cream as I’m a serious addict. Salted caramel perhaps. Can I have some cheese too? I want some cheese. A trolley of cheese actually and some bread and crackers to go with it. And some grapes.

Then I would like a double fernet branca.

I think that’s it. I better stop before I change my mind!

P.S. Actually no forget the pasta. I want the pulled pork and baked beans! Ha ha ha ha.

Porridge Lady - Desert Island Dishes on www.mycustardpie.com

Porridge lady eating a pear

Anna Louise Batchelor aka Porridge Lady – Food Writer, blogger for the Soil Association, sustainable food advisor, radio reporter & presenter, cook and freestyle Porridge Maker who has been an award winner at the Golden Spurtle World Porridge Making Awards.

Whilst away I have been thinking on this and below is my ‘Desert Island Dish’. It is a very autumnal menu but I guess my fave dishes are real hearty comfort foods. After the harvest the foods in the South East of England are bountiful and delicious and it’s a great time to be hungry!

Starters; I don’t tend to eat a lot of starters but I would choose a little wholemeal sour dough bread lightly toasted with walnuts from my neighbour’s garden. Served with slices of with apples and pears from my local orchard  – Cross Lanes Fruit Farm.

Main course – Toad in the hole with peas and home-made ketchup. I make my own sausages from meats reared on a local biodynamic farm and recently the lamb has been superb making very tasty sausages.

Pudding – Oatmeal spotted dick with home-made custard. This is the dish that I won the speciality section of the Golden Spurtle World Porridge Making Championships with and so it’s a dish close to my heart.

To drink – I drink very little alcohol but when I do I love perry which I buy from Olivers Cider and Perry company one of the few real Perry makers left in the country.

Porridge Lady - Desert Island Dishes on www.mycustardpie.com

Oatmeal Spotted Dick – image by Porridge Lady

Claire Sutton – Who makes me homesick and hungry at the same time on Things We Make where she and her husband Ed blog and photograph (beautifully) the…things they make. Lots of common ground between her choices and mine.

Griddled Chicken Skewers with peanut satay sauce

Local Roast Rib of beef, roast potatoes, Yorkshire puddings, horseradish sauce, proper gravy and fresh perfectly cooked vegetables

Raspberry Pavlova with extra thick cream

A bottle of Fleurie (I don’t know much about wine, but I know I have had this and it was nice!)

Claire's Desert Island Dinner - image copyright Things We Make

Claire’s Desert Island Dinner – image copyright Things We Make

Joan Nova –  of Foodalogue who is a food blogger, recipe developer, cooking challenge enthusiast, wine imbiber, casual communicator, social media dabbler, photography enthusiast, tireless traveller.

Soooo hard to choose. I wanted to honor comfort foods from my Spanish-Italian heritage plus what I’ve learned from my travels and my penchant for things Latin American and Asian…not to mention recent discoveries as a blogger which have taught me to appreciate farm-to-table, clean, unprocessed, uncomplicated food preparations.

It was very hard to leave a seafood salad (Italian or ceviche) or some other fish dish behind. Wish it was 4 courses!!

The only thing I was totally sure about was the wine!!

First Course: Caponata Pasta (anchovy-based with eggplant, zucchini, mushrooms, tomatoes, beans, herbs, nuts, raisins, garlic, nuts and chili flakes) tossed with pasta and fresh boccocini.

Entrée: Grilled chorizo, broccoli rabe (rapini) and toasted ciabatta bread with a savory white bean spread.

Dessert: I don’t have a particularly sweet tooth, so I’d opt for twice-baked Italian biscotti with nuts and fruit. I find them irresistible. Maybe I’d take a scoop of deep chocolate gelato or Italian lemon ice or a Vin Santo to dunk that cookie!

Wine: Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina. No question.

asparagus and goats' cheese

asparagus and goats’ cheese pasta from Ren Behan of Fabulicious Food

Ren Behan – freelance writer and blogger behind Fabulicious Food who likes to cook using fresh, seasonal ingredients, enjoys baking and is often influenced by the hearty, Eastern European food of her childhood.

For a starter I would go for Baked Aubergine/Eggplant ‘Iman Bayaldi’ topped with yoghurt, fresh herbs and diced, grilled halloumi cheese. A Turkish recipe I believe, where the eggplant is baked and with onion, garlic and tomatoes. I haven’t made it yet but once ate it at my favourite restaurant so I can’t wait to give it a go.

For a main course I would have to go with home made pasta, kept really simple. I love seasonal food and local produce so my recipe with asparagus and goats’ cheese would do nicely!

For dessert it would have to be a hot chocolate fondant pudding with a gooey centre and a scoop of Cornish clotted cream.

Wine – my favourite is the Viognier grape.

Diana Henry – award-winning food writer, author, cook and presenter

…and if you listened to the end of the recording, the answer was ‘bread and cheese’.

Clovis Taittinger – fourth-generation scion of the Taittinger dynasty and export director for the Champagne house.

Clovis_TaittingerFor this meal I would come back to my roots. First a Camembert to remember good times when I was young; then a simple plate of pasta to give me more energy to face destiny, one with butter and ham; then traditional apple pie with vanilla ice cream. I’d have a last cigarette, if my pack was not wet, with an espresso …with Champagne.

Samantha Wood aka Foodiva – who writes impartial, intelligent restaurant reviews and foodie features about the U.A.E. and other countries.

OK here are mine. Must admit I struggled with the starter, there are so many for me. Yours is a great one too, I can eat pretty much anything with a runny egg, and I do love asparagus.

Starter; Pan-fried foie gras served with toasted brioche

Main course; Fillet steak cooked rare topped with Cafe De Paris butter, mustard mash potato and green beans with garlic

Dessert; Tarte Tatin served straight out of the pan (has to be the original dish with apple) with vanilla or clotted cream ice-cream – followed by a cheese platter with most definitely Stilton included!

Tipple; Dom Perignon rosé for all courses

Giorgio Locatelli – Award-winning Italian chef with restaurants in London and Dubai

Sheila Dillon from the BBC Food Programme mentioned taking watercress sandwiches which made me wish for a stream on the island where I could harvest some wild watercress.

And what would I choose?

I’d start with local asparagus, in season, from the Vale of Evesham with a poached egg on top (maybe Hollandaise too) and lots of freshly ground black pepper. Roast organic free-range pork would be my main course, with crispy roast potatoes, roast parsnips, Savoy cabbage, runner beans, apple sauce, gravy and lots of crackling. I’d be on my own on the desert island so no-one could complain about the crunching. Pudding would be blackberry and apple pie (the blackberries picked from the hedgerows) with home-made custard. Not the best food match, but I’d sip and savour a bottle of 1996 Chateau Palmer bringing back memories of friends who I drank this with.

Desert Island Dish on www.mycustardpie.com

Thank you to everyone who has participated. There are so many people left to include so I love to hear your choices in the comments section. This could be part one….who would you like to ask about their desert island dish?

As to why it’s taken me so long to write up, this post is something I’m printing out as my New Year’s resolution! Strike a chord? Happy New Year everyone – and a massive thanks to everyone who stopped by in 2012.

The ultimate Champagne cocktail

December 11, 2012

Diamonds are forever cocktailEmerging from gold-plated lifts, KP and I were greeted by rows of smiling human nutcrackers who flanked the corridor. An elegant lady in a white stain ball gown ushered us into the Royal Suite at the Burj al Arab; it was an overwhelming dazzle of fairy lights, candles and decorations; a gleaming, shimmering, luxurious, festive fantasy. Moving swiftly through the plush rooms to the bar, I was soon sipping a Diamonds are forever cocktail and would not have been at all surprised if Shirley Bassey herself had made an appearance beside me.

Whether you think Champagne is ‘mostly overrated and always overpriced‘ or “too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right” putting this luxurious wine into a cocktail always feels a little decadent; especially true in this case as the cocktail I was drinking was, until recently, the most expensive in the world. It contained L’Heraud Grand Champagne 1906 vintage Cognac, bitters from Germany and Champagne with 24 carat gold in it all housed in a special Swarovski glass which you can take home with you if you’ve paid for the cocktail at the price of 4900 AED (£838/$1347).

Diamonds are forever cocktail ingredientsHead sommelier, Nicholas Murcott, told me that gold has medicinal benefits apparently prescribed to alleviate nervous disorders and stress. I must say I felt wonderfully relaxed as I tried to calculate how much each sip was worth, and gave up, while contemplating the gleaming bottle of Luxor Champagne which looked like the world’s most expensive snow globe.

Christmas at the Burj al Arab - Royal Suite

The interior of the Burj al Arab seems to come into its own at Christmas. With a surfeit of gleaming, golden surfaces and jewel colours already, the additional application of festive festoons takes it to another level. It is like being an ant inside an enormous decoration. The tallest nutcracker in the Middle East at almost 5 metres (it was going to be in the world but they couldn’t get it in the door) takes pride of place in the atrium (which is the tallest in the world) this year. I must also mention the excellent RBQ Jazz Trio who play in the Skyview bar, where I escaped to with Abu Dhabi Classic FM’s Surianah Mahmoud for a jazz fix at the end of this mind-boggling evening. Information, more images and a video below if you are in the market for this kind of luxury.

Christmas at the Burj al Arab

If, like me, you’ll be spending Christmas at home with friends and family, a Champagne cocktail is a great way to make everyone feel a bit special.

Who made the first Champagne cocktail is difficult to tell but recipes were published by Mrs Beeton (in 1861) and in the first cocktail book Bon Vivant’s Companion by “Professor” Jerry Thomas (in 1862).

It first appears in literature in Charles Dickens’s Dictionary of the Thames:

“Champagne makes a capital cocktail, but will not stand the shaking up process, so it is better, in this case, to shake up the rest of the ingredients, and add the champagne last. Lemon, sugar, bitters, ice, as aforesaid, a glass of good.”

The ‘roaring 20s’ epitomised the cocktail revolution. The pages of PG Wodehouse are littered with libations;  the novel Uncle Fred in the Springtime, describes a fictional concoction which has to be abbreviated as “The May Queen.” The full name of the cocktail, as described by Lord Ickenham, is “To-morrow’ll be of all the year the maddest, merriest day, for I’m to be Queen of the May, mother, I’m to be Queen of the May.” The recipe given as follows: Its foundation is any good, dry champagne, to which is added liqueur brandy, armagnac, kummel, yellow chartreuse and old stout, to taste.

F.Scott Fitzgerald summed it all up “Here’s to alcohol, the rose colored glasses of life.” in The Beautiful and Damned and champagne flows through his novels like a river.  Truman Capote’s comically tragic story, Breakfast at Tiffany’s, about the charmingly naive Holly Golightly, is similarly oiled. Upon news of Fred the narrator’s upcoming publication, Holly and Fred enjoy “Manhattans at Joe Bell’s,” and when Joe hears of Fred’s good news, they get “champagne cocktails on the house.” In the sharp satire Gentleman Prefer Blondes by Anita Loos, opportunist and money-seeking heroine Lorelei Lee opines: “So we came to the Ritz Hotel and the Ritz Hotel is devine [sic]. Because when a girl can sit in a delightful bar and have delicious champagne cocktails and look at all the important French people in Paris, I think it is devine.”

Cinematic references include cocktails made with pink champagne sipped by Deborah Kerr and Cary Grant in the movie An Affair to Remember and Humphrey Bogart utters the memorable words in Casablanca to Ingrid Bergman, “Here’s looking at you, kid,” while he fixes her a drink made of dry Champagne, brandy, a sugar cube and bitters.

Diamonds are forever cocktail

How to make a Champagne Cocktail

Good quality ingredients are essential for any recipe but save your vintage Dom Perignon or Perrier Joet for drinking unadulterated. You could substitute Cava, Spanish sparkling wine which is made in the same way as Champagne (méthod traditionele or Champenoise) but is often a bit drier.

Ingredients

1 sugar cube
3-4 drops of bitters (angostura or other aromatic bitters)
20 ml brandy
champagne

Method

Place the sugar cube in a Champagne flute. Carefully drip the bitters onto the sugar cube and then slowly pour on the brandy. Top up with Champagne. A garnish of lemon peel is optional.

Sky tea at the Burj al Arab

Some other Champagne cocktails:

Bellini – originally made with Prosecco and fresh peach juice, you can also use Champagne

Black Velvet – a mix of stout (such as Guinness) and Champagne. Great with oysters

Death in the afternoon – invented by Hemmingway who advised of this heady mix of absinthe topped up with Champagne ‘drink 3-5 of these slowly’

Kir Royale – kir and Champagne for blackcurrant flavoured bubbles

Mimosa – one part freshly squeezed orange juice to one part Champagne. If two parts orange to Champagne it’s a Buck’s Fizz

Quince Champagne cocktail – inspired by Diana Henry, I’ve been steeping quince in brandy for weeks to make quince ratafia to add to bubbles.

If you are inspired by these there is a list of over 100 Champagne cocktail recipes here.

Places to drink a Champagne cocktail in Dubai:

Skyview bar, Burj Al Arab – serves a range of Champagne cocktails at their Sky tea, as well as the Diamonds are Forever cocktail.

Zuma – renowned for its award-winning mixologists.

Up on the 10th, Radisson Blu hotel, Dubai Deira Creek – you can sip the bar’s signature beverage while listening to jazz and taking in great views of the city until 3am.

Vus bar – a long-established loft bar on the 51st floor is still a great place to order a Champagne cocktail and look at the view. A table by the window is recommended.

101 Lounge and Bar, One & Only, Palm Dubai – ultra-chic indoor-outdoor venue is situated within the resort’s private marina, enabling guests’ entry by private boat.

Pouring Champagne

4 ways to add Burj al Arab luxury to your Christmas

  • Buy a gold chocolate log created by Executive Pastry Chef, Johannes Bonin this is a chocolate cake with cacao streusel, lemon and Tahitian vanilla compote, chocolate mousse “Grandma”, foamy  ivory mousse like “Dulce de leche” and edible gold leaf.
 Price: AED 500
  • Take away a roast turkey and all the trimmings including herb and garlic roast potatoes, buttered Brussel sprouts, French beans, sautéed carrots, sage, onion and fruit stuffing, veal chipolatas, honey-glazed chestnuts and cinnamon roasted pumpkin wedges. Price (5-6 KG 10 People) AED 650
    (7-9 KG 12 People) AED 750
  • Order an exclusive festive Diamonds are Forever cocktail at the Skyview Bar. Served in a Swarovski Crystalline cocktail glass, with diamonds in the stem, the name was inspired by the 29,000 Swarovski crystals in the ceiling of Junsui Lounge in the Burj Al Arab, designed in the shape of the Milky Way.
 Price AED 4,950
  • Dine or stay at the Burj al Arab – full details here

Blink and you’ll miss it –  drinking in action in this video of the event..and yes it was a delicious cocktail. And yes, it is an immense amount of money for pay for a drink, especially with the world in recession. The Burj al Arab certainly knows its market and what appeals to the super rich.

Disclosure: I was a guest of the Burj al Arab for their Christmas launch event but the decision to write about it is my own

This event was great fun to attend, but when push comes to shove, my idea of luxury is picking a perfectly ripe Victoria plum from a tree and eating it. What’s luxury to you? Champagne all the way or simple pleasures?

Name dropping and hob-nobbing

December 4, 2012

Vinn Goute

“Can you hold on a minute? I can smell burning….” The girl  from Airmiles accepted this request calmly and courteously. Throwing the phone down I raced downstairs to be greeted with devastation on several fronts. My Christmas puddings ruined, my plastic pudding containers melted, my beautiful new gleaming steamer pan black and sizzling and coated with melted pudding bowl. The atmosphere was toxic! All I could do was switch off the gas and return to my phone call.  But at least I was booked to go to London for Food Blogger Connect. So much for multi-tasking.

Non-bloggers may view going to such an event as I would a train-spotting convention. However what food bloggers do have in common with train-spotters (bear with me) is a complete passion for our topic and the desire to swap ideas with like-minded people.

The view to St Pauls from the Tate Modern

The view to St Paul’s from the Tate Modern

No reservations

After having a wonderful time last year I was keen to go to Food Blogger Connect again but justifying a flight to London for a long weekend was difficult. Airmiles to the rescue. This is a scheme available in the Middle East where you collect points at a range of outlets and can redeem them for a wide range of things including flights. My points accumulate quickly because I get them at the supermarket (Spinneys) and my credit card (HSBC). Booking was really easy and took one phone call – my ticket was emailed and that was it.

The fabulous thing about the networking facilitated by the internet and social media is that it does bring like-minded people together, from all walks of life and fame and fortunes. I knew I was going to meet some special people but was not prepared for quite how many.  Warning; masses of name-dropping ahead, (but I hope to convey why I it was such a big thrill to meet them all).

I was waiting at the doors of the Tate Modern as it opened. What luxury to stroll round the Munch exhibition on my own. The coffee shop balcony has one of the best views in London across the Millennium Bridge to St Paul’s cathedral. Soon I was dragging my bag over the bridge in the September sunshine taking in views of the Shard, the Gherkin, the Globe theatre and Tower Bridge.

Pickled onions at Cucina Caldesi

Pickled onions at Cucina Caldesi

Just click on an image to view the whole gallery

Un aperativo

Cucina Caldesi was the venue for a cooking session with chef Giancarlo Caldesi where humble food bloggers like me and revered food writers such as Valentina Harris and Roz Denny and President of the Guild of Food Writers Jane Suthering all got stuck in preparing a sumptuous lunch using Grana Padano. I then hot-footed to Highgate for afternoon tea with Sunday Times food writer, cook and TV presenter Diana Henry.  I finally made my way through the rush hour Underground game of sardines, via the Docklands light railway (and great views of some of the Olympic sites) to the door of Cook Sister.  What a warm welcome I received from Jeanne who I had never met before; Karin from Yum and More and I even tucked into real cooksisters for breakfast.

A sparkling start

The Ragged Canteen was in full swing with some muffiny things for breakfast, and the Vitamix team was drawing in a crowd in the courtyard, but things started with a bang when Champagne Jayne opened the Moet. An expert guided tasting of Moet & Chandon, Tarlant and Lanson by educator of the year distracted us from the light shower of rain. I was delighted; yes I miss rain in Dubai. It was wonderful to see so many friendly faces from before and I had a list of people I’d got to know and admire online that I was really looking forward to meeting in person.

Felicity Cloake‘s writing in the Guardian is authoritative yet disingenuous; a real joy to read. It was when she confessed to ‘a decidedly unhealthy obsession with custard‘ that I became a life-long fan. She spoke to us about how she became a food writer and went through some of the basics of style, which “separates writing shopping lists or recipes from something that people actually want to read”.

Helen Best-Shaw from Fuss Free Flavours welcomed a complete stranger from the internet to stay at her flat for Food Blogger Connect 2011 (that stranger was me) and gave me the warmest welcome (and comfortable bed) this year too. As one of the top food bloggers in the UK she has extensive experience of working with brands and PR companies who want to engage with food bloggers. Practical guidance from Helen in conjunction with PR company Golin Harris gave excellent pointers on how to build rewarding relationships.

Shooting in the dark

An enclosed railway arch with no windows and strip, fluorescent lighting must be the absolute opposite of the ideal venue for taking beautiful food photography, but David Griffen was there to show us how to use artificial light; what a challenge. I was initially a little in awe of David due to the exquisite images he takes but he worked really hard to help everyone get the best out of their camera – whether a point and shoot or a DSLR, at every set up. At one point he dashed off, rummaged around in a pile of stuff that was being stored at the back of the room, and came back with the perfect prop. He works closely with top chefs and his admiration for what they do is comes through in his images as well as what he says about them. “Artists’ studios are all about getting the best possible light and what these guys (chefs) are doing is exactly the same, so why is the light in professional kitchens so bad?” He also believes that food is natural so you should shoot it like nature.

David changed the way I approach my photography in one enjoyable and incredibly informative session. If I took one thing away it was his statement that food is about texture and to use the light direction to capture that texture. Do check out his website and his really useful and inspiring mobile phone food photography site too.

Into the school yard

Food stalls were setting up in the railway arch and outside. The whole conference was filled with a succession of the best street food that London has to offer. The Whisk team (remember that big online idea by floppy-haired Nick from the last series of The Apprentice) were telling everyone about their recipe ingredient ordering system while providing the most delectable cocktails. I finally made it to the Bell & Brisket where Bel was making divine salt beef sandwiches; she persuaded me to try my first pickled egg and I sipped some Head in a Hat ale while discussing with Peter whether the correct way to eat one really was by putting it into a bag of salt and vinegar crisps first (it’s a bloke thing I think).

Pen to paper

I would describe Dianne Jacob’s writing as pithy and wise. She has a razor-sharp way of getting to the crux of the matter and she is not afraid to address issues head on. Her book ‘Will Write for Food’ has become a bible for many and some of the most stimulating debates kick off in the comments section of her blog. I introduced myself tentatively, assuming she probably wouldn’t remember me from the odd tweet and blog comment we’d exchanged; however she responded by standing up, giving me a big hug and we were soon chatting. It was the highlight of the whole conference for me.

It seems to be de rigueur for many people who write about food professionally to have a go at food bloggers. Dianne, however, created a nurturing environment for the workshop and fostered confidence in every delegate in the room. She praised us for being writers already, recognising the regular commitment a blog can take. She set us to work too. Firstly to write a short piece, with a beginning middle and end, in five minutes about an ingredient in the room. I chose some grapes and kept popping them into my mouth while I was writing. It was like short-circuiting my writing – taste, feel, write – it took away too much thinking time…which is a good thing. My teens laughed out loud when I read it to them (possibly a submission for Tangerine and Cinnamon’s Foodie Pseudery column?) but it was just one way Dianne got us to really think about taking our writing to the next level.

There are many ways to eat a grape.

Icy cold from the fridge, clammy and smooth, a pop as you pull it from the stalk. You hold it in your mouth, pressed against the roof, the skin smooth like the  carved marble of a statue? How long before you yield to the temptation to bite and crunch so the sharp juice explodes.

Or warm from basking in the sun, serried rows of vines pruned and tamed to coax them into  fecundity. The taste is golden, the juice submits easily.

A chaise lounge and an ardent lover are required for the peeling method. The rest is up to you.

Light, shade …and more eating

After lunch from some terrifically good street food stalls,  I learned more about light from photographer Sarka. “If you understand light and you know how to control light you can create beautiful pictures. You can tell a story with light – each of us associate light with different memories. Go around your house with an apple or something and test where the light is best at different times of the day. Find where the key light is – it can define the mood and texture of your photo.”

I’ve decided to remain on WordPress.com for the time being and Jo Waltham’s talk on migrating your blog to (self-hosted) WordPress.org  and Jason Lee’s fascinating (and scary) presentation on internet security confirmed that this decision is the right one for me just now.  Hugo Pickford-Wardle’s (aka @mistertruffle @hugopw) presentation about a social media grand plan was music to my ears. There are so many ‘snake oil salesman’ in this field and he was the exact opposite. Through sound strategy married with creative thinking his company Rumblechat helps tell food brands’ stories. My favourite quote from him is ‘the tactician must know what to do whenever something needs doing; the strategist must know what to do when nothing needs doing.’

Another day ended wrapping up warm and huddling round phenomenally good street food stands and drinking cocktails and Lebanese wine. My eyes were out on stalks going home on the Underground on a Saturday night – those spray tans, those shoes!!

Cheese

Cheese – with Ellen Silverman

The discerning eye

What’s the first thing you see when you look at your photograph? Is it forks, knives, big shadows? What do you want to see? Seeing a shot through the eyes of top food photographer Ellen Silverman put a few more pieces of the ‘light and food photography’ jigsaw pieces in place. Ellen was petite, elegant, stylish and utterly ruthless…not with us the workshop attendees…but her approach to making the shot absolutely perfect. Find some of the key takeaways from this session on Candids by Jo.

props

Less is more with props at the Ellen Silverman workshop

An amazing ending

Final eating, goodbyes and giveaways remained. I had gravitated to the Vitamix stand many times over the weekend and consumed an array of soups, frozen yoghurts, smoothies, margaritas, custards and ice-creams that this incredible machine can produce (even a mulch for your garden out of the left-over peel). Trying to justify how to buy one as a Christmas present for my teens and husband (i.e. me) I held my breath along with everyone else as the draw took place. Vitamix were giving away three machines. I think my face says it all when my card was drawn. Sadly, I’ve not been able to test it out yet as it still hasn’t arrived, however when it does you’ll be the first to know. In the meantime see what my lovely friend Ren (met at FBC12) made with hers. I said a final farewell to everyone dragged my bulging bag (packed with gorgeous goodies) back across London to Heathrow.

Vitamix winner announcement

Image courtesy of Food Blogger Connect

So what were the best things for me about my second visit to Food Blogger Connect:

  • Brilliant networking – I’ve reconnected and made new blogger and speaker friends. So many new opportunities have opened up from both events.
  • Workshops – getting the advice of some leaders in their field in a small group is one of the best ways of learning for me. It was a real privilege to meet Dianne Jacobs, Ellen Silverman and David Griffen in particular.
  • Speakers who make you think outside your subject. Even if you are not involved in a niche blog for instance, or wanting to sell your images to Stock Food, or pitching to a travel magazine, the variety of speakers and topics over both conferences (Felicity Cloake, Tim Hayward, Fiona Beckett, Heather Grant, Sumayya Jamil, Jaden Hair, Vanessa Kimbell to name a few).
  • The street food stalls this year were varied, exciting and the food was of a very high standard. Something you’d find hard to experience all in one place and not outside the capital.

And the downsides…

  • Well, the venue had its challenges….at once quirky, cosy and interesting but also a bit cold, and not really up to the technical challenge. But I believe the hunt is on for another one for FBC5 (the fifth ever FBC in July 2013).
  • With so much to pack into two and half days you can’t do it all. Because I went to so many workshops I missed out on quite a few of the presentations but several can be downloaded here.
  • As most people don’t make any money (or a nominal sum) from their blogs, it’s quite an investment. But there is plenty of scope to look for sponsors (FBC alumni will always help) and there are some great early bird deals on during December. Register for a place here.

Will I be going to the fifth Food Blogger Connect? I just can’t stay away. And I’ve joined the team to look after their Twitter strategy (just call me Chief of Tweets!) – so come and say hello on @bloggerconnect (hashtag #FBC5). I’d better start saving my Airmiles…. See you there?

Flying the flag – 41st UAE National Day

December 2, 2012

UAE_National_Day_Walking_on_SunshineThe spirit of celebration seems to get more intense every year in the build up to National Day. Walking round my neighbourhood early morning, a few days before 2nd December and the bunting and flags were already out in force. I planned to take pics of some of the enormous ones but some thunderstorms put paid to that.

Dubai is a multi-cultural mash-up where the smallest things can be difficult but anything is possible. Although I miss Britain I am happy to have called it my home for over twelve years.

To view these pictures as a slideshow, click on the first one.

Why preserving is back in fashion according to Diana Henry

November 24, 2012

Purple pickled eggs - My Custard PieSalt, sugar, smoke; all ephemeral things used by cooks for centuries to preserve foodstuffs that would otherwise mould, rot or decay to nothingness. Simone de Beauvoir compared making jam to capturing time, ‘the housewife has caught duration in the snare of sugar, she has enclosed life in jars.’

My wheelie bag felt like a boulder having trailed it through London streets, lugged it on and off kerbs and ricocheted off the regimented rows of commuters’ legs on the tube. One last hurdle was a precipitous flight of steps leading up to the home of author and TV presenter Diana Henry. A last heave-ho, with the welcome assistance of Botanical Baker, and I was there at the front door which was flung open giving a glimpse of an expansive room shining with sunlight. Diana herself seemed to radiate warmth and light, talking in her sing-song Irish voice nineteen to the dozen.

Cheese, butter , tea cups at afternoon tea

She says that lifelong loves take hold early on and she remembers sitting on the countertop in the kitchen eating freshly made wheaten bread spread with raspberry jam made by Aunt Sissy (who wasn’t really an aunt). My own memories are playing in our garden during the long summer holidays while the currants ripened on the bushes. My mother would bottle them and made the most beautiful jewelled tarts in the depth of winter. Little blackcurrant pies with sweet soft shortbread-like pastry or a deep wheel of redcurrant tart with a lattice top.

Some homemade quince ratafia enhanced some excellent English sparkling wine giving us an excuse to drink in the afternoon. Slanting rays of Autumn sunshine lit a snowy cloth on a wooden table dotted with mis-matching delicate cups and saucers. Still life arrangements of an array of food, many recipes taken from Diana’s book Salt, Sugar Smoke; gravaad lax, salad, cheeses, French butter, wheaten bread and a jumble of jams and jellies.

liqueurs and bookshelves

Long book shelves formed a backdrop to the table, drawing the eye compulsively. The most comprehensive lexicon of cookery books I’ve ever seen; a tempting tea and the company of some of my favourite food writers and photographers aside, I could have curled up on the sofa with a stack of them for many hours. These were not decorative books, but well-thumbed editions collected over many years forming the backbone of meticulous research. Diana’s manner is expansive and charming, her house elegant but casual (a pile of books was dumped on a chair, a blue j-cloth jostled with a decorative tin and a vase of flowers from the garden). She describes herself as a home cook, but her interest in food sees her reaching back into history for inspiration and testing recipes fastidiously. Little wonder this new book took three years to write.

Diana Henry afternoon tea

To be an eaves-dropping fly on the wall, listen here (I challenge you not to feel hungry after this):

books on a chair, tin and flowers in the kitchenDiana Henry is an award-winning food writer with forays into TV. I realised that I have cooked from her recipes many times through her writing for House and Gardens magazine and she has a regular column in the Sunday Telegraph.  Her instructions are precise – she covers all the important background information about preserving in meticulous detail for instance. However, it is never laboured and her words dance lightly on the page conjuring up the smells and tastes from the kitchen.

In answer to my questioning why she decided to write a book about preserving Diana said she tries to write books on subjects that have not been covered and on new topics. Although there were a lot of books on preserving most of them were quite old-fashioned and rooted in one culture. There is a return to making things in the home and not wasting ingredients so this is a timely book. It is in line with thinking about food in a more caring way; as she says, it is about using gluts and not squandering abundance. She also takes pleasure in small things; a good jam on your toast in the morning, a chutney that is made from apples you gathered last autumn, cutting salt beef that you’ve made yourself and can feed to a dozen friends.

Purple pickled eggs

Returning to Dubai (after Food Blogger Connect 12) I unpacked Diana’s book and sat down to read. Her style of writing is warm, evocative and down-to-earth (somewhere between Nigella and Delia -in the nicest possibly way). Jam-making is just a small part of preserving and this book covers curds and fruit cheeses, salted and smoked meats and fish, cordials, relishes and pickles, with influences from around the world, from Russian zakuski to sharbats from the Middle East.

Apple, cucumber and mint pickle

Apple, cucumber and mint pickle

I am not likely to have a glut of home-grown strawberries from the garden here in Dubai so I was on the look out for recipes appropriate to the ingredients available here in abundance. Masses of cucumbers in my veg box went into apple, cucumber and mint pickle, which was simple to make and fantastic with lamb.  The quince season is fleeting so I preserved a prized pair in brandy to make quince ratafia (to match with Prosecco at Christmas). I the bookmarked the mango, passionfruit and lime jam recipe for when I can buy perfumed Alphonso mangoes by the boxful; the recipe holds extra spice for me as in the preface Diana mentions a childhood book which held a special magic for me too, Miss Happiness and Miss Flower by Rumer Godden. Hot date (not that kind) and preserved lemon relish uses bountiful ingredients, as does coconut and coriander chutney and Middle Eastern pickled aubergines.

Having had a long conversation with Peter from a Head in a Hat beers about them and plucking up the courage to taste them for the first time as made by Bel from The Bell and Brisket (her salt beef was also divine) at Food Blogger Connect, I knew there was one recipe I had to make. Purple pickled eggs start off vividly purple and fade over time to a subtler hue. They made a show-stopping birthday present for KP; peeling 14 eggs meant they were made with love.

Saying goodbye to Diana was like leaving an old friend, picking up this book is like making a new one.

Purple pickled eggs

Purple pickled eggs

(recipe reproduced with permission from Octopus Books from Salt sugar smoke by Diana Henry)

Fills 1 x 1 litre (1 1/4 pint jar)

14 eggs
1 litre (1 3/4 pints) white wine vinegar (I used white vinegar)
1 beetroot, sliced
100g (3 1/2 oz) granulated sugar
2 tbsp coriander seeds
1/2 cinnamon stick
3 dried chillies

1. Boil the eggs for 10 minutes, then drain, run cold water over them and peel. Make a few punctures in each egg with a slim skewer or a cocktail stick. Set aside.

2. Mix all the rest of the ingredients together in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and lave to simmer for about 15 minutes. Put the eggs into a sterilized jar and pour the hot vinegar over them. Seal with a vinegar-proof lid and keep in the refrigerator once cold. The eggs will taste better after a couple of days. They’ll keep – covered with the vinegar – for about a month.

Melon, lime and ginger jam

Image by Laura Edwards from Salt sugar smoke by Diana Henry

Who can resist a pie?

November 19, 2012

wagyu beef pieCertainly not me. And neither can most of us it seems as pies are interwoven through the culinary history of very, many countries.

Whether cutting into the crumbly crust of shortcrust pastry to reveal a hot, savoury interior, sinking a spoon through a cloud of meringue to reach tangy lemon curd or parting a fluffy mound of potato to delve into flakes of white fish in a silky sauce.  It feels like you are unwrapping a present when getting stuck into a pie.

Pies were first developed as a way of carrying food on a journey and the Egyptians covered honey in grains to make a portable dessert. The Greeks, being practical people, are credited with wrapping meat in flour and water dough to protect and preserve – the first piecrust. The Romans were adept at adding spices and spread the delights of pie-making far and wide on their expansion of their Empire and the Europeans took to this legacy with gusto. Nursery rhymes tell of the British fondness for this hot, comforting meal – little Jack Horner stuck his thumb into one, Simple Simon met a pieman going to the fair and four-and-twenty blackbirds were baked in a pie.

One of the most unusual kinds of British pie is from the little Cornish village of Mousehole (pronounced mowzel) where whole pilchards are baked under a pasty lid with the fish heads peeping out of the crust heavenwards leading to its name – stargazy pie.  Also famous from this part of England is the Cornish pasty made for workmen to eat down the tin mines. Some say that the miners grasped the thick pleated edge in their dirty hands and discarded it. Despite (or due to) the recent phenomenon of a pasty shop on every high street in the UK, in 2011 the Cornish pasty was granted Protected Geographic Indication by the EU.  In March 2012, the British government’s decision to put 20% tax on hot food caused a furore and was variously described as ‘pasty-gate‘ and the ‘pasty tax’ and pressure led to a U-turn on the legislation.  Farther North, the town of Wigan is renowned for the love of meat pies and the World Pie Eating championships. The East End of London was notoriously polluted in Victorian times and poorer residents were comforted by pies made of stewed eels (the only fish that could survive in the fetid Thames) bought from street sellers. Pie and mash shops sprang up which added mashed potato and ‘liquor’ (a liquid made from the eel-stewing water and parsley).

leeks onions and carrots

Pie-making helped the early settlers in America to preserve fruit for longer.  They used local ingredients such as pecans and pumpkin, and their culinary enthusiasm coined the phrase ‘As American as apple pie’. ‘As easy as pie’ is refers to the act of eating one rather than making one. Other expressions from the US include ‘pie in the sky’ and polite as pie’.

Countries across the Middle East built on the early Greek expertise and developed many types of pastry-encased delights of their own. Ingredients for European mince pies where brought back from the Crusades.  In the 15th century, the Persian poet Abu Ishaq wrote in his The Treasure of the Appetite: ‘We came into the kitchen for this purpose, that we might show the fried meat to the pastry’.  There is a huge range of sizes and fillings with each region often having their own very particular shape from the large, spicy, pigeon pastilla of the Maghreb, through boreks, briks, spanakopitta, lahm bi ajeen, to dainty sambousek.

So what exactly is a pie and what’s the best way to make one?  A loose definition is a savoury or sweet filling covered or encased.  Pastry is not the only topping, for instance there is mashed potato over lamb mince in Shepherd’s pie and whisked egg white and sugar on lemon meringue pie.   Many ‘pies’ such as key-lime and sweet potato are technically tarts but the affection for pie is deep-rooted in nostalgia.

Shepherds pie

Some of the types of pastry used in pie-making:

Shortcrust

Usually twice the weight of plain flour to unsalted butter (or half butter, half lard), with the fat rubbed into the flour to the texture of breadcrumbs, bound with iced water. The challenge to the U.A.E. cook is to keep everything cold so turn up your air conditioning and put all the ingredients in the fridge for at least 30 minutes before using.  To make lovely, crumbly shortcrust use a light touch, pulse if using a food processor, allow the pastry to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes or more before rolling out and never knead the dough.

Puff pastry

A blanket of buttery puff pastry, the golden layers towering over the filling, is a delight. Although time consuming, it is worth making your own as most regular frozen puff pastry contains hydrogenated vegetable shortening or trans-fats.

Hot water crust pastry

This is robust dough for using in raised pies like game or Melton Mowbray.  You’ll need a special pie mould and a bit of patience but the results are spectacular.The combination of hot water, fat and flour results in a hard, sticky paste which can be moulded by hand into a shape or raised-pie tin. Hot fat can be dangerous; beware of overheating the lard – it should not be heated to more than 30-40C.

Filo pastry

Filo or phyllo (which is the Greek word for leaf) pastry takes skill to make at home as it needs to be stretched into very thin sheets. It is used extensively throughout the Middle East for all sorts of pastries and pies.  While you are working, keep sheets that you are not using covered with a damp tea towel to stop them from drying out.

This is high up my list of great comfort foods:

Shepherd's pie

Shepherd’s pie

Shepherd’s pie is made with minced lamb while Cottage pie is made with beef. It’s a thrifty dish, often made with the left-over meat from a Sunday roast joint.
Ingredients
1kg potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks
80g butter
1 large leek, quartered lengthways and thinly sliced
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 large carrot, diced
500g lean minced lamb (or roast lamb minced)
plain flour (all-purpose)
1 tablespoon tomato purée
250ml lamb stock
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs of fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon of dried thyme
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Method

  1. Preheat the oven to 190C
  2. Put the potatoes in a large pan and cover with water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes until tender. Alternatively steam for 20 minutes. Drain and leave covered with a tea towel and a lid for 5 minutes. Put through a potato ricer (or use a potato masher) and add 30g of butter, some sea salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper. Beat with a wooden spoon.
  3. Melt the remaining butter in a large frying pan and add the leek, onion and carrot. Cook over a low to medium heat until soft and golden (this can take at least 20 minutes).
  4. In a large pan or casserole dish, brown the mince over a medium to high heat. Stir in the flour and cook for a few minutes, then add the tomato purée. Cook while stirring for about 5 minutes. Add the softened vegetables, the stock, bay leaf, thyme, Worcestershire sauce and seasoning. Bring to the boil and then turn down to a very low simmer for about 25-30 minutes.
  5. Put the minced meat mixture into a baking dish. Spoon over the mashed potato, level with a fork and make marks with the tines.  Bake for 25 minutes until the top is golden brown. Serve with peas.

Pies in Dubai

The wagyu beef pie pictured above in from Jones the Grocer; it’s usual in Australia to serve pies with ketchup I hear. It came to the table steaming hot and was savoury and satisfying (not trace of a soggy bottom).

Time Out listed a few top pie places but I’d like to know your favourites. And what about Middle Eastern pies? Or a good fish pie? Let me know your recommendations. What are the essential things that make a pie great for you?

So, hands up, who ate all the pies?

An abridged version of this article first appeared June 2012 edition of Cookery Plus magazine.

Food photography and styling at the Miele Gallery

November 18, 2012

Fruit platter and Scandinavian buffetThe gleam on the glaze of a sugar-coated doughnut, a sheen of moisture on a freshly-washed aubergine, the soft glow from the skin of a just picked raspberry, glistening gravy in a rich casserole, the matt oval of a fresh whole egg and a broken one singing its yellow brightness. Have I made you hungry? I hope so. And really that’s the point of food photography. The image should make you want to sink your teeth into that doughnut, dip bread into the casserole or whip up an omelette from the eggs.  The critical ingredient, that takes takes a plain old meal to a must-have mouthful, is light.

In the Emirates we have a lot of it. The skies remain cloudless for most of the year and buildings are designed to temper the sun’s intensity. Windows may be large but they are tinted, with overhangs and terraces. Beating sunshine is harsh and strong and changes very quickly throughout the day.  For a food photographer shooting in natural light it offers a few challenges.

Scandinavian buffet

As soon as I walked up the stairs, past the retro ads and appliances, into the Miele kitchen I was smitten and knew from the bank of windows flooding the whole area with daylight, it would be the perfect location for a food photography and styling workshop. The little enclosed terrace meant that opening the doors to let in unfiltered light would be possible while the state of the art Miele kitchen offered everything that food lovers could possibly want for preparation, cooking and styling.

But a workshop doesn’t depend on light alone. Here the Miele Gallery space really comes into its own with a small conference area at one end with funky red chairs that look like they’ve escaped from a sports car, built in projector screen, white board, lots of powerpoints, all of which can be screened off for privacy or opened up.  A team of staff make sure the experience (from tea and coffee, to washing up, to IT) is seamless. Have I tempted you? Miele hire out the space for private functions and run regular cooking classes.

Food styling in action

Meeta, food photographer and stylist, author of What’s For Lunch Honey?, flew in from Germany once again to  conduct the workshop in Dubai. Theory, working demonstrations and practical assignments got a our small group of delightful delegates considering a range of factors which affect food photography and styling including how to work with the available light (which led to the picture above). The real advantage of a workshop (rather than a static classroom style course) is that you really get to know everyone in the group and everyone shares information and perspectives.

I suppose you could hold a workshop about food photography and styling without much emphasis on the food you were actually eating, but this is an anathema to both Meeta and I …and our wonderful partners who conjured up a series of feasts to inspire and sustain.

Dima Sharif in the Miele kitchen

It was Meeta’s idea to reflect the diverse culinary choices available in Dubai. We travelled from Northern Europe to Italy, the Far East, Morocco and Spain through delectable dishes. Our favourite fine food emporium Lafayette Gourmet provided all the ingredients for the two days, from deep orange pumpkins to spices, and provided a copious Scandinavian-style brunch; from platters adorned with edible flowers to a huge pot of cheesy potato gratin. The team of chefs from Tapeo, a Spanish restaurant within Lafayette Gourmet, returned with an array of tempting tapas and deeply satisfying and authentic paella. Chef Russell Impiazzi made sure everything was top-notch and brought his usual brand of attention to detail, passion for food and energy to the table.

Just saying that Dima Sharif cooked our lunch totally underplays the fantastic contribution she made to the workshop. She sprinkled her culinary expertise and joi de vivre over everything like fairy dust, as well as getting everyone to help make a Moroccan menu including pumpkin soup, marinated aubergine, almond couscous, and a lamb and aubergine recipe made in a magnificent Emile Henry aubergine-hued tagine from Tavola who provided many lovely props for the photography sessions. An enormous pink goodie bag including a special spice blend and olive oil from Dima’s family olive groves was ours to take home too.

White truffle menu at Ronda Locatelli

We left the calm, clean lines of the Miele Gallery for the riot of colour, bustle, grandeur and scale that is Atlantis the Palm where we went on a whirlwind and gargantuan tour of several cuisines. We spent an hour on the terrace of Ronda Locatelli with the man himself, sampling the new season’s white truffle menu. Apart from the knife and fork action, you could have heard a pin drop as Giorgio kept everyone at the table enthralled (more here).

Asia RepublicDish after dish emerged from the open kitchens of Asia Republic; even after the truffle menu, no-one could resist dipping their chopsticks into enticing bowls of Vietnamese spiced beef noodle soup or elegant plates of Cantonese roast fragrant duck or Pad thai. Nobu’s garden provided a brief digestive interlude. The vegetable beds have been newly planted at the beginning of the season. It’s a tranquil place and the setting for a new event Sunset Saturdays. Elegant and restrained like Nobu himself (who I met earlier this year).Saffron

Saffron, an Aladdin’s cave of cuisines, was our final dining location; twenty live cooking stations mean you might eat a full English roast dinner, Chinese dim sum, choose from an amazing array of fish and shellfish at the raw bar (read more about the crab here), select sushi, salad or a steamboat. The chocolate fountain is Atlantis-scale along with a kaleidoscopic dessert section.

Desserts at Saffron

Our delegates had come from Dubai, Bahrain and Qatar to focus on food photography and styling and it was a real pleasure to meet everyone in the group. We started as strangers but were united at the end of the two days by Meeta’s ebulience, Dima’s warmth, the fantastic setting of the Miele Gallery facilitated by Cynthia, our visit to Atlantis especially Giorgio’s candid discourse , Chef Russell’s enthusiasm and the fantastic food shared around a common table. At the end of the second day, we sat on tall stools or simply leant against the long refectory-like bar dipping into steaming pans of paella, the atmosphere lively with animated conversation, cameras finally exchanged for spoons. It was dark outside but light-hearted within.

Fiesta

Read more from Meeta and our talented delegates:

What’s For Lunch Honey? – Dubai: A State of the Art Food Photography and Styling Workshop at Miele – masses of gorgeous pics

The Naked Plate – Food Photography and Styling workshop Dubai – includes a brilliant video of our Spanish Fiesta feast

Sandcat – Dubai food styling workshop – another unique perspective and great pics

Atone’s beautiful pics on Flickr – masses of food pics

Food Photography and Styling Board on Pinterest

A special thanks to everyone who made this possible.

  • Our special venue hosts the Miele Gallery – with extra special thanks to Cynthia
  • Field trip hosts extraordinaire Atlantis, The Palm
  • For ingredients, produce (including organic fruit and veg from Unifrutti)  and incredible feasts, Lafayette Gourmet especially Chef Russell and the Tapeo chefs
  • Beautiful prop sponsors Tavola
  • The amazing Dima Sharif
  • S Pellegrino and Acqua Panna for fine water

As well as Dima’s gifts everyone went home with wonderful goodie bags. Thanks to

  • Toffee Princess for once again supplying us with incredibly moreish Scottish tablet in fantastic flavours.
  • Aqua Panna and San Pellegrino
  • Lindt for spoiling us with fine Carre chocolates and luxurious Perles.
  • Lime and Tonic Dubai for a fantastic voucher for a unique experience

And to all of the delegates who attended the workshop:

Cooking with Shy | Food and Tools | Ginger and Scotch | Sandcat | Nomad Photo | The Naked Plate | Antone

Massive thanks to Meeta once again who imbues everything with her turbo-charged energy, unlimited enthusiasm and incredible warmth and generosity.

So what makes a food photo irresistible for you? If you photograph food, what are your challenges with light? And what’s your favourite meal to share with a group of friends around a great big table?

Group at Ronda Locatelli